Looking to improve your finger strength? Hangboards have become a fixture at every gym across the world. The original hangboards were primitive but effective and led to a jump in climbing grades. The picture above is the legendary Wolfgang Gullich training in Camp 4, Yosemite. Wolfgang was credited with the development of many training techniques, including the campus board and was the first to break into the mysterious 9A grade. To note, Ben Moon supporters would bring up "Hubble" at this point, but let's save that for another day! The compact sister tool to the campus board (for explosive/contact strength) is the hangboard (for finger strength). This simple tool can be mounted at home to allow easy access to training when you are strapped for time to go to your nearest gym. Stop making excuses and start hanging!
Note: Climb On Equipment, selects products based on the expertise of our team. We comprise of climbers, athletes, guides, skiers and mountain rescuers. We then take the selected products and compare them in this independent review to help consumers make educated purchases. We are not paid for these reviews. This means that if we don't like a product feature or vice-versa, we will tell you!
Hangboard Comparison
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Metolius Wood Grips Compact II |
Lemur Designs Alannah Yip Portable Hangboard |
Burly Boards Two Hand Portable Hangboard |
Beastmaker 1000 Series |
Tension Climbing |
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| (↑) | $127.95 | $87.95 | $59.95 | $169.95 | $259.95 |
| Staff Pick (♥) |
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♥ Overall pick. | ♥ Amazing quality. |
| Pros | Low-cost, full-size wooden hangboard | Hang it up at home, in your van or at the crag, multiple edge sizes. weighs only 1lb. | Minimal design that is ideal both for travel and warming up at the crag. | Universally used, nice finishing texture, plus good selection of pocket, edges and slopers. | High quality and purpose built for advanced users. |
| Cons | Limited option of edge and hold depths | Not as stable vs wall mounted. | Not as many hold options and not as stable as a wall mounted board. | Expensive, no pinch training option, three finger pockets located too close together. | Pricey and not ideal for those new to finger training. |
| Summary | A great hangboard for the budget conscious climber who doesn’t want to compromise on features. | A versatile tool that goes where you go at a reasonable price. Perfect for warming up below your project. | Perfect for the minimalist that is not looking to keep things simple. | A compact top quality fingerboard best for 5.11 and 5.13 climbers who want a skin friendly board. | The Ferrari of hangboards a dedicated hangboard for those following a dedicated training program. |
| Features | Wood, jug, 56mm slopers, 29mm pocket and edges. 19mm Edges and pockets. | Wood, 24mm, 20mm, 18mm and 12mm edges. | Wood, 20mm and 10mm edges. Jug rail on top. | Wood, Half pad, one pad and two pad pockets, training App | Wood, Multiple edges, pockets and a large sloper on top. |
Selecting a Hangboard
Before selecting a hangboard ask a few key questions. Where are you going to mount it and how? What are you looking to achieve with it and what training program are you following? What level do you climb at? and What is your budget? This will help you determine the size of the board you can squeeze into your home, the amount you are prepared to spend and the edges or pocket or jugs you need for your training program. Usually, hangboards will need to be mounted onto a piece of wood that is larger than the hangboard and then the wood is screwed into the studs in your wall. Without having multiple screws into the studs, you are likely to rip it right out of the wall.
One of the key features of any hangboard is the texture and comfort of the edges. If the edges are painful and grab the skin you are likely to tear your skin and this will stop your training or at very least make things uncomfortable. Having smooth comfortable pockets and edges will keep you coming back and sticking to your training program, especially once you start adding additional weight. We mainly stock wood hangboards as the smoother wood is friendlier on the skin but the downside is lower friction compared to plastic boards.
The spacing of the edges you are training on should be a comfortable distance apart, this is determined by your shoulder width, which edges you use and where they are located on the board. Make sure you select a board that suits your needs. If the pockets or edges are not lined up, it can feel 'tweaky' and possibly lead to injury.
Whatever hangboard you choose, remember that the most important factor in building finger strength and reaching your climbing goal is hard work! Put the hangboard somewhere you want to hang, set out goals, turn on some music, mount your phone, follow your training program and chart your progress!
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Happy training!
— From the Climb On Team
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