Looking to improve your finger strength? Hangboards have become a fixture at every gym across the world. The original hangboards were primitive but effective and led to a jump in climbing grades. The picture above is the legendary Wolfgang Gullich training in Camp 4, Yosemite. Wolfgang was credited with the development of many training techniques, including the campus board and was the first to break into the mysterious 9A grade. To note, Ben Moon supporters would bring up "Hubble" at this point, but let's save that for another day! The compact sister tool to the campus board (for explosive/contact strength) is the hangboard (for finger strength). This simple tool can be mounted at home to allow easy access to training when you are strapped for time to go to your nearest gym. Stop making excuses and start hanging!
Note: Climb On Equipment, selects products based on the expertise of our team. We comprise of climbers, athletes, guides, skiers and mountain rescuers. We then take the selected products and compare them in this independent review to help consumers make educated purchases. We are not paid for these reviews. This means that if we don't like a product feature or vice-versa, we will tell you!
Hangboard Comparison
| Tension Climbing Simple Board | Digit Climbing Yubi Hangboard | Awesome Woodys Cliff Board Micro | Metolius Wood Grips Deluxe II | Beastmaker 1000 Series | Tension Climbing Grindstone Mk2 | |
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| Price (↑) | $70.95 | $99.95 | $109.00 | $139.95 | $169.95 | $219.95 |
| Staff Pick (♥) | So simple. | Take it to the crag and warm up. | Light enough to go anywhere. | So many options. | ♥ Overall pick. | ♥ Amazing quality. |
| Pros | Cheap, very compact, expandable with 2nd set. Adjustable set up. | Hang it up at home, in your van or at the crag, cheap and with multiple edge sizes. | 400 grams, compact, well made, portable and hangs anywhere. Has adjustable hanging angle. | Multiple depths in edges and pockets and nice warm up jugs. Nice finishing. | Universally used, nice finishing texture, plus good selection of pocket, edges and slopers. | Amazing texture, multiple edge sizes, depths marked and this holds your phone! |
| Cons | Limited options, no pockets. | Not as stable vs wall mounted. | Narrow, limited options. | Larger size, undefined edge depths. | Expensive, no pinch training option, three finger pockets located too close together. | Pricey, no pockets. |
| Summary | A great addition to expand your home set up that takes very little wall space. | A versatile tool that goes where you go at a reasonable price. Perfect for warming up below your project. | Perfect for taking overseas, up to a crag or hang in your van. Nicely designed with options on both sides. | When you want all the sizes and have space to mount it at home. | A compact top quality fingerboard best for 5.11 and 5.13 climbers who want a skin friendly board. | The Ferrari of hangboards — a dedicated hangboard for those following a dedicated training program. |
| Features | Poplar wood, Jug, 20mm and 15mm | Birch wood, 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 18mm, 22mm, 27mm, 28mm, 35mm (flat) | Wood, 30mm, 18mm, 15mm edges plus pockets and jugs | Wood, Multiple edges and pockets | Wood, Half pad, one pad and two pad pockets, training App | Poplar Wood, Multiple edges |
| Dimensions (cm) | 14 x 15.25 x 6.35 | 45 x 6 | 35 x 9 x 4.5 | 61 x 21.6 x 5.5 | 58 x 15 x 5.8 | 58.4 x 17.8 x 7.6 |
Selecting a Hangboard
Before selecting a hangboard ask a few key questions. Where are you going to mount it and how? What are you looking to achieve with it and what training program are you following? What level do you climb at? and What is your budget? This will help you determine the size of the board you can squeeze into your home, the amount you are prepared to spend and the edges or pocket or jugs you need for your training program. Usually, hangboards will need to be mounted onto a piece of wood that is larger than the hangboard and then the wood is screwed into the studs in your wall. Without having multiple screws into the studs, you are likely to rip it right out of the wall.
One of the key features of any hangboard is the texture and comfort of the edges. If the edges are painful and grab the skin you are likely to tear your skin and this will stop your training or at very least make things uncomfortable. Having smooth comfortable pockets and edges will keep you coming back and sticking to your training program, especially once you start adding additional weight. We mainly stock wood hangboards as the smoother wood is friendlier on the skin but the downside is lower friction compared to plastic boards.
The spacing of the edges you are training on should be a comfortable distance apart, this is determined by your shoulder width, which edges you use and where they are located on the board. Make sure you select a board that suits your needs. If the pockets or edges are not lined up, it can feel 'tweaky' and possibly lead to injury.
Whatever hangboard you choose, remember that the most important factor in building finger strength and reaching your climbing goal is hard work! Put the hangboard somewhere you want to hang, set out goals, turn on some music, mount your phone, follow your training program and chart your progress!
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Happy training!
— From the Climb On Team
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