Climbing Reflections - 2023

What is Beauty?

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Fear vs. F.E.A.R

Real dangers exist in climbing, real hazards that can injure or worse are present every time we tie into a rope but some fears that freeze climbers are a matter of perception. The fear of falling or the fear of climbing above a protection piece when a solid safety system is in place is a fear of uncertainty and vulnerability. The risks of getting outside of our comfort zone often make movement hesitant, foot placements seem invisible and clipping holds shrink.

The gap between real dangers and an illusory view of reality, often a misrepresentation can be summarized with the acronym False Evidence Appearing Real aka F.E.A.R. This type of F.E.A.R doesn’t just exist in climbing, it can permeate through all decisions, into relationships, career choices and can have a similar effect in life. “On the edge of Inertia“ is the expression that rings true for this type of frozen mindset. When a climber is frozen in place, leg shaking, not able to climb up or down it is apparent for all to see, but when inertia infiltrates life for fear of change, fear of the unknown or just discomfort it is not so obvious.

Next time you can't distinguish between rear hazards, real dangers and F.E.A.R. when out climbing or when making a life choice, take a deep breath and separate the actual hazards from the illusionary view that is clouding the decision-making process. There is no perfect decision and it is the process, not the outcome that is important, climbing to the chains isn't as important as freeing the mind to move forward.

Climber: @alicehafer
Photo: @tradisplaid
Route: Sentry Box 5.12a

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What’s Your Destination?

With temperatures dropping and the evenings becoming cooler, it won't be long until the rain returns to the west coast and we start seeking warmer destinations.

The freedom offered by van living and car camping has been embraced by generations of climbers. The question of “In which direction?” is often debated at crags and over a warming morning brew. Those with time and the resolve to drive for days can look at East Coast route climbing destinations like Red River Gorge or bouldering areas like Horse Pens in Alabama.

For those not wanting to cross the entire country, there are hundreds of areas to consider. A quick stop at Smith Rock before heading out to Lander, Wyoming, or perhaps a drive down to Yosemite Valley before exploring Joshua Tree.

If you are looking for somewhere off the beaten path, check out Cochise Stronghold, or visit Tuolumne Meadows before the winter arrives in the high country. Wherever you are headed, enjoy the freedom to travel and the simple pleasure of new destinations.

Climber: Kaya Lindsay
Photo: @onechicktravels
Destination: Cochise Stronghold

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Axiology

How do we value an ascent? Does a pitch, mountain, route, or problem that was more challenging hold more intrinsic value? Axiology is the study of assigning value; at its core, an experience may be intrinsically valuable by virtue of being pleasurable or in the case of some climbs, more challenging.

How climbers assign value to routes seems to be greatly debated and is often subjective to the individual. A climb that flows and contains beautiful movement in an amazing setting is often given more stars than a harder route with awkward moves in an average setting. The intrinsic value comes from the sheer pleasure of the climbing experience.

A climb that makes you laugh, smile, grin or giggle with excitement is surely more valuable than another that you climb just for a grade?

Climber: @maribalga
Photo: @getoutsidebr
Route: Yasgur's Farm, 5.9

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Connecting The Dots

A full mountain traverse, a whole multi-pitch, all the cruxes on your sport project, and even bouldering lines are just about connecting the dots. From the moment you wake to the moment you fall asleep, life is about connecting the dots. From having a healthy breakfast, to grabbing your car keys, and heading to meet friends, you are just connecting moments to reach your goal for that day, that week, or even for lifelong goals.

Steve Jobs once said, “You can't connect the dots looking forward; you can only connect them looking backwards.”
Without hindsight, the Tantalus Traverse can seem like a lot of terrain to cover in a day, but just spend all day connecting the dots from snow to rock, to ridges to the bivvy spot and afterwards, the dots will all connect into one amazing journey.

Steve Jobs was referring to the notion that there is no such thing as a perfect plan, just like when you “perfectly” plan a mountain objective and it never plays out that way. ​​You have to trust that the dots will somehow connect in your future. You have to trust in something -- your gut, your judgment, your experience, destiny, life, karma, or whatever it is - and believe that it will connect you back to your goal.

Climber: @mike.gallimore
Photo: @celsiusbaby
Route: Tantalus Traverse, 5.4

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Pebbles in Your Shoes

The relative importance we place on a summit, a conversation, a dream, a person, or an opinion will change our capacity to view things clearly. Two people may see the exact same situation and come to different conclusions, will read the same book differently, and as Oscar Wilde famously said, “The optimist sees the donut, the pessimist sees the hole.”

The giant donut that is life, can be sugar-coated, sweet and delicious, or a hole into which we fall. Your perspective on that artery-clogging treat or amazing indulgence will greatly influence the experiences we all live through.

The mountains we climb, the routes we tackle, the days we struggle, and the days we succeed are all framed by our own perspective. So why do pebbles in your shoes matter? Because it's often not the mountain that stops us from climbing to the summit but the pebbles in our shoes.* Those metaphorical pebbles refer to the shifting in perspective that opens up new possibilities, new summits, and new achievements, and ultimately means we get to enjoy the donut!

Climber: @khmylan
Photo: Matt Enlow Photography (novaugust.net)
Route: Perspective 5.11a

*Muhammad Ali

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Stoicism - Taking Responsibility for Your Mind.

Enduring pain and hardship without complaint is part of every crack climber's repertoire. The crushing of fingers into thin cracks or enduring skin removal while grovelling up wide ones is part of becoming versed in all the different sizes.

Some climbers seem to be immune to the suffering involved in alpine climbing, indifferent to the pain associated with sharp finger locks or rock so rough you walk away literally bleeding down your arms.
What makes some climbers stoic and others cry out from the slightest discomfort?

Stepping back from emotional and physical chaos to reach a state of calm, clear-headed thinking is the bedrock of Stoicism. The Roman ruler Marcus Aurelius is quoted as saying “Nowhere you go is more peaceful - freer of interruptions than your own soul.”

This image captures Mirka, looking calm, thinking clearly of the route ahead. Next time you are suffering, take responsibility for your mind and reach for a state of calm. “You have power over your mind — not outside events. Realize this, and you will find strength.” - OG Marcus Aurelius

While it's very unlikely the Roman emperor was thinking about suffering up an Indian Creek off-width we can relate to finding a peaceful mindset amongst the chaos and suffering.

Climber: Mirka Blstak
Photo: @pavlabphoto
Route: The Zip 5.10a

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Where The Pavement Ends

Leaving the known and going into the unknown is daunting. The metaphor above describes how in life, leaving the road well travelled may unlock a whole new future, new adventures, or new opportunities, but often leaving the security of what we know holds us back.

Climbers regularly freeze on routes from a combination of fear and not knowing the moves ahead. Launching into a sequence of moves above your last bolt - not knowing if your solution works - taxes your ability to stay calm. Even worse is the inability to attempt a sequence because of the inevitable fall if the solution doesn’t work. Best to stay on the pavement, stay in your comfort zone, and stick with the known?

It is arguable that the very nature of heading into the unknown is the essence of our sport. The definition of a first ascent literally requires it. Each mountain peak, line, problem, or route are all unknowns until they are solved and climbed. Thus the challenge for the next party is considerably easier, not because the route becomes easier, but because you know it's possible.

That mental shift of being able to try, being able to go beyond the pavement, being able to push your comfort zone and see what lies beyond, leads to the best journeys and most steadfast memories.

Photo: @stephenshelesky
Mountain: Mt Robson

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When Focus Becomes Identity

Momentary self-focus on staying alive is part of being on the sharp end of a rope. That focus, physical tension, and narrowing of the mind allow cams to be placed while literally hanging on. While some climbers are almost zen-like in their focus, others climb with an uncollected mind that freezes any upward physical progress and removes the ability to make gear placements, or even see foot holds.

Focus falls into two general categories - analytical self-focus and experiential self-focus.
Analytical self-focus is excellent at progressing your climbing. It tends to evaluate “what went wrong?”, “what did I learn?”, and “What can I improve on next time?” The answers to these questions allow you to improve as a climber.

Experiential self-focus is more introspective and looks at thoughts, feelings, and sensations. If you focus purely on how the climb made you feel, and contemplate about the experience the next time you are in the same situation, your mind will pull up the same emotions. This cycle of feelings and rumination can lead to trepidation about the next climb rather than learning from the last one.

Alternatively, if the sensations you experience are positive, full of joy, and empowering, they can fill you with self-confidence. The ability to focus on objective assessments by choosing the correct path forward, to execute during a send, combined with an empowered emotional focus, allows climbers to enter the flow state.

The focus of your mind will become your identity as a climber - you get to decide which path to take.

Climber: @mayanclimbs
Photo: @frank_kretschmann
Route: Luftballon Dach, UIAA Grade 9, “Air Balloon Roof”

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The Magic Box

Imagine a magic box that has all the answers, imagine it knows all the beta to every single move, problem or route hidden inside. You would STILL have to ask the right questions to take anything worthwhile away!

The output from the magic box is only as valuable as the input. The real question worth reflecting upon becomes; What are you doing to prompt the change? A jukebox only plays the song you select. What are you selecting?

While at first, this may seem obscure, how many of us have watched a friend trying the same beta again and again with no change in results? The rock is the magic box, it has all the answers, it can be solved but you need to ask the right questions. The mental puzzle of solving sequences, nuances, and subtleties in infinite variations is the magic that just happens one day.

Linking these magic moments of movement together is the answer, you just have to ask the right questions. Climbing can revolve around strength, but those that truly master movement have asked enough questions over enough time and memorized the answers.

Therefore, the input becomes more important than the output - you just have to ask.

Climber: @mabsoule
Photo: @evbottakesphotos
Route: Eurasian Eyes, 5.13b

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Occam's Razor

Unlocking sequences to make upwards progress is part of the mental challenge of climbing. When seeking to problem solve any climb, Occam’s Razor principle (named after Friar William of Ockham), states to search for explanations constructed with the smallest possible set of elements, or in other words, the simplest solution is often preferable.

This often occurs in climbing over time as new sequences emerge and grades settle once the easiest and simplest solution is found. Not everyone follows the scientific approach, and some will just use raw power to solve sequences. However, this only works when the climber isn't close to their physical limit. If you analyze the methodical approach of most professional climbers to a hard project, they follow the scientific principles below without even knowing it:

Define the problem (The crux)
Establish the criteria (What do you want to preserve?)
Consider all the alternatives (Variations in beta)
Identify the best alternative (The one that works best for your abilities and traits, often the simplest)
Develop and implement a plan of action (Rehearsals and overlapping links)
Evaluate and monitor the solution (Is it working? Refine the micro beta)

Climber: Climb On Staff Member
Photo: @tifotos
Route: The Minotaur 5.13b/c

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Being Present

Bailing halfway up Snowpatch spire because of an afternoon rain storm doesn't have to ruin a day of climbing. Wanting to tick “Surfs Up” or “Sendero Norte” might not happen today, but if we get caught up thinking about past made plans, or future desires we often miss the moments of joy found everywhere.

Being present, even while hiding under a tarp waiting for the rain can be beautiful. Being fully conscious of the moment and free from the noise of internal dialogue is often associated with feelings of stillness and peace.

Being too attached to an outcome, attached to past memories or worrying about the future can fill the mind. Being present is often easy while out climbing as it can be mentally and physically engaging, but being present all day every day is a learned skill. Some people are blessed with the ability to be present and let the past drift off because it's just that, the past, and can’t be changed. Others have to work hard to settle in the moment, while some live almost entirely in their own thoughts and dialogue.

However you exist in the world, being present is one way of enjoying each and every moment, person, place, or mountain experience, even if that moment is running away from the route of your dreams because of a rainy day.

Climber: @indragramm
Photo: @connorcaldwell & @beccamaysmith
Area: Bugs

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Eye of the Storm

When the world is spinning around you, the calmer weather found at the centre of the storm is known as the “eye”. The combination of focus, fear, and determination to redpoint often creates a calm in the mind of the leader, sometimes even clipping the chains without even being aware of how they got there.

This “eye” state of mind is often used as an escape from the storms swirling around the rest of our lives, maybe this is why the sport can seem so addictive.

Meditation is often used to achieve the same result, to connect to a place of inner calm, even in the midst of chaos, stress, or strong emotions. Do you climb to find calmness in the centre of your own storm, or do you find climbing to be meditative where the focus can be on the simplest things, like breathing or the texture of a crystal?

The art of redpointing a sport route can often come down to finding that calmness, not wanting “the send” so badly that you over-grip and get anxious, but actually letting go and being good with whatever happens - only then do you climb your best, and let the storm pass.

Climber: @connorjahrunge
Photo: @aratson
Route: Creepshow, 5.13d

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Earth’s Precession

The Power of Toe Hooks

Climbers never talk about the strength of their shin muscles (tibialis anterior), but this innocuous-looking body part can sometimes be the difference between success and failure. Have you ever seen someone hanging by their toes bat-hooking on a jug, and then tried to replicate it, only to fall off? This magical hooking body part allows the toes to flex up and has way more applications in climbing than it appears at first glance.

Try these motions next time you are stumped by some deviously set problem in your local gym:

Toe hooking - The classic and first learned manoeuvre of pulling on a hold, hueco, or arete with the top of your toes.

Clamping - Stand on top of a foothold while hooking your toe with the other foot and then squeeze between them.

Lip hooking - Throw a toe above the lip of a problem and pull to release a hand, this is often used again and again to navigate a lip and to release another body part.

Heel-toe camming - Add a toe hook to a heel hook to further jam the heel hook in place, even if only partly effective, it can lock in place just long enough to move increments higher.

Compression toe hooks - Throw a toe around a corner, arete, or into a crack and pull with all your might across your body to the opposite hand. This compression can often release the spare hand or foot, to allow upwards progress.

If you ever watch World Cup bouldering competitions, these sneaky skills are often built into the problems as the only solution, so don't forget to flex those shin muscles.

Climber: @midoriontherocks
Photographer: @jessicaarwenbest
Boulder Problem: Right Martini in Hueco Tanks V12

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Achieving Mastery

Practicing an art, a sport, a discipline, or an instrument to the point of mastery will transfer to other areas of your life. Miyamoto Musashi states, “From one thing, know ten thousand things”, the strategy learned along the way to achieve mastery will apply to everything in life.

The dedication to all of the climbing disciplines, and particularly the pursuit of Alpinism, will shape our perspectives, the lessons, and the strategies learned while overcoming both the physical and mental challenges formed in a climber’s worldview.

Alpinists need to know the foundational skills from logistics and planning, to navigation, glacier rescue, and rock climbing, as well as having a stoic approach to suffering cold nights and punishing approaches. Likewise, an artist pursuing the same mastery in music will have to dedicate their time and suffer through pain as their body adapts to the work involved, and their minds become attuned to rhythms and melodies until the music becomes ingrained into the very hands that hold the instrument.

While on the outside, the two seem starkly different, it is the dedication and adaptation that is learned and applied to every part of life. So next time, hear the music as you walk towards a summit, and know it's not the summit we seek, but the mastery of ourselves.

Climber: @kyrros
Photo: @mihneaprundeanu
Route: NE Face of Chobuje

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Lines In The Sky

While people have been walking tight ropes and lines for centuries, modern slacklining was born in Yosemite Valley in the 80s and is credited to Adam Grosowsky and Jeff Ellington. The sport was always closely tied to the climbing scene and its popularity began to rise. In 2010 it started to receive media attention, which culminated in the bizarre sight of Sketchy Andy (possibly the most famous slackliner) appearing at the Super Bowl halftime show next to Madonna with millions watching.

Since then the sport has seen a dramatic rise in popularity with sub-genres starting to develop: highlining, trick-lining, water-lining & long-lining (The current world record is over 1km in distance) and will continue to evolve with cross-over happening between base jumpers, aerial silk artists and climbers; with every conceivable idea and concept being explored. Lines have been constructed between air balloons in the sky, over lakes, between mountain peaks and even rigged off the Eiffel Tower.

The evolution of the sport has also been greatly assisted with the advancement of products, materials and techniques. Specialized equipment catering to the specific needs of slackliners has allowed safer lines, easier rigging and great safety margins.

While it used to be something climbers practiced on rest days, it has now become a sport unto itself with non-climbing athletes that are as dedicated and proficient in the art of slacking lining as pro climbers are within their own discipline.

Slackliner: @lee2hats or @spencerseabrooke?
Photo: @thejoltjoker
Line: The Big Dipper, Third Summit (North Star Zone) to Angels Crest Zone

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Rest Days

Muscles need to recover, the skin needs to heal, scabs need to mend, and it takes time to shake that deep fatigue after multiple huge days in the mountains. So what to do in between climbing missions?

Some of the best memories aren’t of climbing but of lying in meadows recovering, eating and indulging after a long gruelling day. The body often craves calories during these down times and feeding the inner animal can be a rest day activity unto itself.

With warm weather, one of the best and most memorable rest day activities has to be the mountain lakes. Swimming in a warm lake cleanses not only the soul but also the dirt and grime from days of dusty cragging. If the lakes are too busy, try checking out one of the many river spots, while the water is often cooler this can also help recovery.

If all this sounds too strenuous, you can always fall back to the default coffee and donut while watching the world go by or binge on the latest Netflix series. Whatever rest you choose, it can be as memorable as the climb itself, so enjoy it, you earned it!

Climber: @ninacaprez
Photo: @Samuël Bié

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The Cheshire Cat - If You Only Walk Long Enough

Thinking back to an exchange between the mysterious Cheshire Cat and Alice from Lewis Carroll's “Alice in Wonderland”...

Alice: "Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?"
CC: "That depends a good deal on where you want to get to"
Alice: "I don't much care where"
CC: "Then it doesn't matter which way you go,"
Alice: "-so long as I get SOMEWHERE,"
Cat: "Oh, you're sure to do that, if you only walk long enough."

The road we take as climbers, as in life, must be selected soberly and deliberately. The planning and the “north star” that guides our decisions will determine our final destination, or else we will just end up somewhere. If you want to be clipping bolts at the Back of the Lake, standing atop Denali, summiting in the Bugs, or topping out on a year-long boulder project, that road may need to be decided upon years before.

How many of us feel lost or wander and are not sure what to do with our lives? The lesson isn't to find the end goal, it's to keep going with purpose, even if you change direction in the future again and again, just keep determining a direction and keep going! If not, you are giving up your greatest freedom - your choice.

Climber: @tora_yama
Photo: @evbottakesphotos
Route: Wicked Gravity, 5.11a

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Where Does Happiness Come From?

Happiness is just another emotion like feeling angry, sad, scared, or excited. That state of contentment that one feels when pulling over the top of a route as epic as “All Along the Watchtower” is amazing but temporary. The joy on the climber’s face is what we all seek, but if only all days could feel as good as summit moments.

“He is richest who is contented, for content is the wealth of nature.” William De Britaine

Many quotes summarise finding joy in the moment and from experiences throughout our days. What makes a rich life is finding contentment between adventures, climbs, & trips, and being content with who we are and what we have.

The truly wealthy have contentment in their everyday lives and then add on Bugaboo mountain experiences, Red River climbing adventures and connections with partners. This image captures just that - three friends enjoying the moment with one another.

Climber: @adamo1979 & @quentinclimbing
Photo: @johnpricephotography
Route: All Along the Watchtower, VI, 3000ft,32 pitches,5.12 or 5.10/C2-

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Those That Are Seen Dancing Without Music Are Thought To Be Insane.

Looking up at climbers on a big wall it can seem like insanity, however, making snap judgments without complete information creates misunderstanding. The full quote by Nietzche states “And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music”

While only sometimes there is music involved in wall climbing it is the lack of understanding of the processes, drives and motivations that causes others to interpret the behaviour of climbers to be insane. In everyday life, our own biases and assumptions about others skew our view until we take time to truly understand someone's motivations.

Climbers don't have a death wish, they are not clinging to the wall filled with adrenaline. It is the opposite; wall climbing is a slow, calm, almost meditative mental experience that takes time to master. The very nature of solving problems, hard work and commitment to the objective create memories and partnerships. It is only insanity to those who don't understand the dance climbers are engaged in.

We all have times when the initial reaction is to jump to a conclusion about someone, or a situation and think they are insane; remember it is our own assumptions that lead to false conclusions. Maybe we just need to raise our understanding to appreciate the melody to which another person dances.

Climber: tom_schindfessel
Photo: @grade7equipment
Route: Golden Gate, 5.13a, El Capitan

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Kintsugi: The Art of Highlighting Imperfections.

A perfectly blank face is unclimbable and a perfect object doesn't tell its life story. It is the imperfections, the cracks, the blemishes, and the failures that emphasize an object's past; they make it unique, and as with Kintsugi, even more treasured. The cracks filled with gold emphasize its failure - it was a broken pot. The value comes not because of the gold, but because the rebuilding of something that has failed creates something greater, more unique, and immeasurable.

Famous alpine crack lines, like Sunshine Crack, are just imperfections that allow passage up an otherwise almost perfect face. The fracture and slow failure of the mountain until it eventually falls, make it invaluable to climbers everywhere.

Humans and mountains, like Kintsugi pots, are valued not because they are perfect, but because they have been rebuilt on failure, what they have overcome, and the stories they hold. Those imperfections can be beautiful like the gold on the outside, or a contemplation of the past, making each of us unique and valuable.

Kintsugi means joining with gold - “golden joinery”

Climber: @ashley.scanlan
Photo: @laurenpowers.photography & Marco Montalti
Route: Conrad Cain Classic up Bugaboo Spire

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The Pull and The Push

At night we can look up and see the stars, we can dream of where we are going or who we want to become but when you look down the steps ahead are dark. During the day when the steps ahead of us are illuminated but the stars are hidden, we can take a path forward but will it lead to the dream?

Looking towards an often hidden alpine peak or remote climbing destination is like looking at the stars, but without seeing the small steps in the right direction, you will never make the summit or arrive at your foreign destination. The pull of the dream and the push of your steps taking you there creates an alignment of focus and actions.

Without the dream of climbing your hardest boulder problem, clipping the chains on your Euro project, or standing on top of a perfect summit you are unlikely to arrive, however, you certainly won't arrive without taking the steps.

These steps could be everything from physical training to managing logistics, to saving financially, to meeting the climbing partner who matches you in the mountains. What is holding you back?

So next time you look up and see the stars and start dreaming, remember to light up the path ahead of you and start walking in the right direction.

Photo: @aratson
Mountain: Mt Fee as seen from Brandywine

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As You Think So Shall You Be

These seven powerful words capture the reality of your thoughts. Your thoughts create your worldview of life and become the foundation from which attitudes, behaviours, and actions emanate. Do you spend your days thinking about far-away mountain lines, historical ski traverses, and alpine missions, or focus more closely on boulder problems at home or dreamy sport lines filled with dripping tufas?

These thoughts will become your reality, these thoughts will alter your feelings, motivations, and actions. Subconsciously, it will become your normal, and as Dr. Wayne Dyer captured beautifully in a simple quote, “You become what you think about all day long, and those days eventually become your lifetime.”

This can be applied to a lifetime of mountain adventures, but also to simpler, kinder thoughts about yourself and others. If you think about yourself without criticism, then apply the same kinder thoughts to those around you, it will become your subconscious normal.

The thoughts and moments before heading on your next adventure, up your next line, or sitting below the next project in the forest all solidify who you shall be.

Photo: @blueiceclimbing
The Haute Route - Chamonix (Maybe the most famous historical ski traverse in the world?)

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Discomfort is the catalyst for growth

It’s the days, weeks, or months when you suffer a little, are scared a little, forge into the unknown, or have to push through your comfort zone that creates change. It’s the discomfort of the unfamiliar and the unknown that allows new mindsets to blossom.

“Growth is painful. Change is painful. But nothing is as painful as staying stuck somewhere you don't belong.”
- Mandy Hale

That growth can occur while stuck in an off-width, during an all-night rappel, high above your last bolt, or from trusting your first cam placement. That invaluable growth moment and those experiences are often etched into your mind and remembered with fondness. The main difference between a veteran climber who always looks unfazed and an Elvis-legged beginner is just hundreds if not thousands of growth moments linked together into a journey.

Next time you are out there suffering, questioning how you ended up there - remember that these moments are the stepping stones that serve as a source of positivity and growth.

Photo: @jeremymorrell
Climber: @weberam2
Route: Hypertension 5.11a