Can you ever have too many climbing shoes?
Join Kinley Aitken as she shares her expert approach to choosing the right climbing shoes for every type of objective. With years of experience on rock both professionally as a guide and recreationally, Kinley breaks down how she selects shoes based on fit, function, and climbing style. From well-loved, comfortably fitted all-day shoes—perfect for long trad routes and frequently resoled—to her snug, high-performance pairs reserved for harder trad or sport lines and bouldering problems, she explains the reasoning behind each choice.
In this video, Kinley dives into her go-to models for trad, sport, and bouldering, offering insights into how different fits and features affect performance. She also highlights a range of alternative options that might suit your own climbing goals and foot shape, helping you make more informed choices for your next send.
What are the advantages of owning multiple pairs of climbing shoes?
Kinley keeps 6 to 7 pairs of shoes in her La Sportiva quiver, each chosen with a specific purpose in mind. Different climbing objectives call for different fits—she'll reach for a tighter, more aggressive pair when tackling technical face climbs, while a more comfortably fitted shoe is ideal for long multi-pitch routes where all-day wear is essential.
Owning multiple pairs also helps extend the life of each shoe. By rotating between them, Kinley spreads out the wear and tear, allowing time to send heavily used pairs in for a resole without losing performance in the meantime. More importantly, certain shoes are simply better suited to specific types of terrain or climbing styles. Whether it's edging on micro holds, smearing on slabs, or hooking on overhangs, having the right tool for the job can make a noticeable difference in both comfort and performance.
Kinley's La Sportiva Climbing Shoes of Choice
1. Crack climbing and multi-pitching
La Sportiva Women's Katana Lace: Sensitive and Comfortable
La Sportiva Katana is her chosen workhorse and a technical specialist shoe, it excels at crack and face climbing, it is comfortable while driving power over her big toe. She will have multiple pairs sized up for longer days where comfort is prioritized and sized down for routes that require higher-performing edging and thinner cracks. The katana offers a nice mix of sensitivity and a stable standing platform
Fit Alternatives
2. Sport Climbing
La Sportiva Miura VS: Precision and Power
La Sportiva Miura VS is known for its stiff midsole, aggressive downturn, and pronounced asymmetry—making it a go-to choice for technical climbing where precision is key. It excels on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain, especially when standing on micro edges or pockets, where its firm structure provides excellent support and power transfer through the toe.
While the Miura VS can hold its own on steeper routes, its sharply downturned shape and pointed toe box make it less than ideal for crack climbing. The aggressive toe positioning, which is great for edging and pulling on steep holds, can feel uncomfortable when jamming into cracks for extended periods.
Fit Alternatives
3. Bouldering
La Sportiva Women's Skwama: Sensitivity and Versatility on Steep Terrain
La Sportiva Skwama is Kinley's favourite when tackling steep bouldering and overhanging terrain, thanks to its split sole design that offers enhanced sensitivity and flexibility. This design allows the shoe to conform to the shape of the rock, giving you better feel and control when smearing or toeing in on small features.
One of the standout features is the patented S-Heel™ cup, which provides excellent medial support and stability during heel hooks—crucial when you're pulling hard on overhangs or roof sections. Additionally, the Skwama includes a generous layer of rubber over the toe box, making toe hooking more secure and efficient.
Combining softness with just enough structure, the Skwama performs exceptionally well in dynamic and technical climbing, from bouldering problems to steep sport routes.
Fit Alternatives
Summary
Owning multiple pairs of climbing shoes offers clear advantages in terms of fit, performance, and durability. Once you find models that work well for your foot shape and the terrain you climb, adjusting the sizing based on your comfort needs allows you to optimize each pair for specific objectives. Whether it's a snug fit for precision on steep sport routes or a more relaxed fit for long multi-pitch days, having the right shoe for the job can make all the difference in both performance and enjoyment.
Guiding
If you want to book a day with Kinley check out her website: www.kinleyaitkenguiding.com
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