Take a deeper dive into the updated Edelrid Ohm II. This unique and innovative product allows teams with major weight differences to climb together more easily. Watch Edelrid rep Anna Campbell breakdown when and how to use it.
The Updated Ohm II
What does the Ohm do?
The Ohm II is a assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences. It also offers greater lowering control when lowering a heavier partner.
How does it work?
The Ohm adds 25kg/55 lbs to the belayer side of the system by pinching the rope in a groove when the angle of the device changes. This angle change occurs only during the rapid acceleration of the rope during a fall. When paying rope out slowly the device does not engage.
How do I use the Ohm?
Load the lead climber's rope into the device and clip it to the first bolt. The device can be stick-clipped to the first bolt or preloaded and placed on your harness ready to be clipped when you reach the first bolt on lead.
The Ohm is designed for ropes between 8.9 - 11mm, but works best using a rope between 9 & 9.5mm and the belayer must weight a minimum of 40kg/88lbs.
Please note:
- Do not use it on trad climbs.
- If the rope jams when clipping the belayer can wiggle the rope to disengage the Ohm.
- For full technical details refer to the product manual found with the device during purchase.
What are the updates between the Ohm to the Ohm II?
- A new swivel joint has been added replacing the quicklink/mallion rapid so the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the first bolt.
- The locking mechanism has been updated, it now moves smoother through the device while climbing and provides a nicer catch when falling.
- It now comes with a new push button locking system which makes it much easier to insert the rope and remove the device when cleaning the route.
- It also now comes with a red indicator to warn when the device isn't closed and the geometry has been refined for smoother clipping.
Leave a comment