Black Diamond Athlete Essentials
Black Diamond athlete Ethan Salvo spends a lot of time hanging out on the walls above Squamish, sometimes quite literally.
We joined Ethan on Drifter’s Escape, his project high on the Stawamus Chief, to talk about “sky cragging,” projecting hard trad and some of the Black Diamond gear he relies on while spending long days working Squamish’s hardest trad pitch.
From the Z4 and Z4 Offset cams that protect the route to the Zone Harness and Vapor Helmet he wears while climbing, Ethan walks us through a few of his current essentials and why they’ve earned a place in his kit.
Sky Cragging
What Is Sky Cragging?
Sky cragging sits somewhere between a day at the crag and a traditional multi-pitch climb.
Instead of climbing an entire multi-pitch route from bottom to top, the goal is to get established at a particular pitch high on the wall and spend the day working it much like you would a project at your local crag. In Squamish, where long routes often move between ledges and distinct sections of climbing, that can mean bypassing everything except the 'money' pitch you really want to focus on.
For Ethan, that pitch is Drifter’s Escape, a hard trad project high on the Stawamus Chief.
The climbing may be the focus, but getting there changes how you approach the day. You need enough gear to move safely around the wall, layers for changing conditions, plenty of food and water, and everything required to stay comfortable between attempts.
As Ethan puts it, the objective is to get to the pitch efficiently and then make the ledge beneath it feel as much like the base of a crag as possible.
“It’s basically just like going to a sport cliff, except you’re on a ledge way up on the wall.”
Protection
Building the Rack
On Drifter’s Escape, protection is one of the most route-specific parts of Ethan’s kit.
Most of the pitch is protected with micro cams and offset cams. The placements can be extremely particular, making range, head width and handling extremely important.
Black Diamond Z4 Cams
Ethan relies heavily on Black Diamond Z4s for most of the placements on the route.
In the larger Z4 sizes, the double-axle design provides additional range. On a pitch where small differences in placement size matter, that extra range gives Ethan a little more margin if a cam walks into a wider section of the crack.
At the smaller end of the range, Ethan also likes the slightly firmer trigger action of the Z4s. Many of these placements require the lobes to be pulled nearly closed before the cam is inserted, so having a stem and trigger system that remains controlled while still transmitting feedback from the placement becomes valuable.
The result is less about carrying a particular cam because it is his “favourite” and more about having a tool that matches the cracks he is actually trying to protect.
Z4 Offset Cams
Granite cracks rarely stay perfectly parallel.
Flared seams and irregular constrictions can leave placements where a conventional cam simply does not sit as cleanly as you would like. On Drifter’s Escape, Ethan uses Z4 Offsets in exactly those situations.
Offset cams pair two different lobe sizes in the same unit, allowing the cam to better match cracks where one side is wider than the other.
In some placements, there simply is not another piece that fits.
“It’s just about having the right tool for the job.”
The Zone Harness
Living on the Wall
Working a hard pitch is not just about the moments when you are climbing.
A projecting day can mean hours sitting at belays, hanging in the harness, jugging ropes, brushing holds and resting between attempts. For Ethan, that makes comfort and function more important than keeping weight low.
That is where the updated Black Diamond Zone Harness fits into his kit.
The new Zone uses larger, hexagonal gear loops than the previous version, with a tapered profile that Ethan finds easier to clip and unclip gear from while climbing. He noted that each loop gives him room for several additional pieces compared to the older version, a meaningful difference on trad routes where the rack can grow quickly.
A fifth rear gear loop provides another place to keep less frequently accessed equipment, such as a tagline or extra slings, leaving the primary four loops available for the rack.
The other important change is less obvious until you spend time hanging in it.
The waist belt is slightly wider and uses relatively thin padding, creating what Ethan describes as a strong balance between weight, movement and comfort. That matters when a harness is being worn day after day.
For Ethan, the ideal harness is not an ultralight specialist piece. It is something comfortable enough for long belays, mobile enough for hard climbing and practical enough to carry a full rack.
“I feel like Black Diamond kind of nailed the balance between comfort, weight and performance.”
The Vapor Helmet
Why Ethan Wears a Helmet
Ethan’s reasoning for wearing a helmet goes beyond safety alone. He finds that wearing one also gives him a significant confidence boost, knowing he has an added margin of protection.
The approach to Drifter’s Escape passes through ledges with loose rock, flakes and other objective hazards, so he wears a helmet at all times while moving around the wall.
Hard trad climbing can put the rope, protection and climber into awkward positions. Ethan talks about the possibility of a leg moving behind the rope while weaving through the thin seam and the consequences of flipping upside down during a fall.
Knowing he has a helmet on removes one more thing from his mind.
That mental benefit matters when he is trying something at his limit.
The Black Diamond Vapor is his go-to largely because it is light enough that, after a few minutes, he stops noticing it is on his head.
“I know I’m going to try a little bit harder and feel more confident in myself if I know I’ve got a helmet on.”
Sky Cragging Comforts
The Less Obvious Essentials
Not everything Ethan brings up to Drifter’s Escape is climbing hardware.
Long projecting days involve a lot of waiting, and Ethan’s approach is to make that downtime as comfortable as possible. A hammock gives him somewhere to properly relax between attempts. A book helps pass the time. Extra layers stay in the bag even on warm days because conditions high on the Chief can change quickly.
And then there is lunch.
Rather than surviving on bars all day, Ethan often brings leftovers from dinner the night before in a Pyrex container. By being selective with his climbing equipment and saving weight where he can, he leaves room for comforts like a proper meal.
When the objective is spending an entire day at one pitch in an exposed location rather than moving quickly from bottom to top, saving a few grams matters less than being warm, well fed and ready to give another good attempt.
“By saving weight elsewhere I am able to bring heavier and better food, like a bunch of pasta.”
Featured Gear
Shop Ethan’s Essentials
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Black Diamond
Black Diamond Z4 Cams
Flexible-stem cams built for placements where precision and range matter.
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Black Diamond
Black Diamond Z4 Offset Cams
Offset cams for flares and irregular placements where standard protection may not fit as cleanly.
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Black Diamond
Black Diamond Zone Harness
A lightweight performance harness balancing mobility, gear capacity and comfort for long days on the wall.
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Black Diamond
Black Diamond Vapor Helmet
Lightweight helmet designed to disappear once it’s on your head.
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