Mountain Footwear and Crampon Pairings

Author: Katy Holm
Cover photo: Courtesy of La Sportiva and Matteo Pavana

Introduction

Whenever we venture into the mountains, selecting the right footwear is one of the most critical decisions we face. The way we move, the complexity of the terrain, the weather conditions, and our individual capabilities all influence this decision. Pairing our chosen footwear with the appropriate crampon can significantly impact our chances of success or, at the very least, affect our comfort and safety. This article will explore the factors to consider when choosing footwear and how to pair it with suitable crampons.

Footwear categories and features for mountain travel

Footwear is designed to optimize travel over specific terrain. Depending on the terrain, skill of the user, and what the user wants, they might prioritize different footwear features. For example some people prefer runners, because not surprisingly, they run well. The heel rocker and padding where needed result in a nice rolling heel strike and a bouncy nimble feel for moving fast. Runners, however, are not designed for snow travel or climbing. On the other end of the spectrum, boots made for ice climbing or 8000m peaks are very stiff and supportive, so they edge very well and are nice and secure for snow ascents and descents. On the trail, however, their stiff soles make them clunky and less comfortable for long periods of walking.

Many mountain brands categorize footwear into four categories: running, hiking, approach, and mountain. At the most simplified level the feature sets of each category are prioritized as follows: trail runners for running movement on trails, hikers for comfort over long treks on trails, approach shoes for scrambling on rock, and mountain boots for secure movement over mountainous terrain including snow, mixed, and sometimes ice. Shop footwear within the category closest to your application to get the best assortment of shoes for your needs. To note, each brand will blend the lines between footwear categories. They may make only certain categories or may define categories differently than above. Therefore, it is important to understand performance features for mountain travel so you can identify the right footwear for your application.

Performance Features

1. Climbing zone - This is the flattened area of the sole near the toe that enables precise toe placement on edges and maximum rubber contact with the rock for grip.

2. Sticky rubber and lug design - Sticky rubber is the best choice for grip on rock. Approach shoes generally use the stickiest rubbers. For example, many brands use Vibram Megagrip, Unparallel uses their RH climbing shoe rubber, and Black Diamond uses their black label mountain rubber. Mountain boot rubber compounds are chosen to optimize both grip on rock with durability for walking on abrasive surfaces like scree¹ (e.g. Vibram Spring Lug Tech or Vibram Mont). The lug design of approach shoes optimize contact surface on rock, so the lugs are generally less deep and have flat surfaces while the lugs of mountain boots will be a little more defined for bite into loose surfaces like snow or dirt.

3. Toe shape for precision foot placement - Footwear designed for climbing will place the toes over the climbing zone so toes can be precisely placed on an edge with the force transferred from the toes to the hold. Laces will extend toward the toes allowing precision fit. Shoes made for walking or running generally place the toes a little further back from the front of the sole for a nice rolling movement.

4. Heel shape for snow descents - Rockered heels provide a nice rolling movement for running and walking, but when it is time to descend snow slopes the heel skids out making snow descents feel treacherous. While a little rocker makes walking movement nicer, a sharp enough heel profile is needed for more bite into snow while boot skiing or plunge stepping down snow slopes.

Choosing proper footwear

In this section, the shoe choice will focus on models from Approach and Mountain boot categories of footwear as these categories contain footwear designed for mountain approach. Within the Approach Shoe footwear category, we exclude urban approach shoes, ultralight approach shoes designed for descending, and crag approach shoes designed to be breathable but not durable enough for hiking through scree during mountain approach.

In the Mountain Boot category, we exclude high altitude mountaineering boots, heavy general mountaineering boots, and work boots. Shoe choice focusesses on footwear designed to scramble, approach alpine rock climbs, general mountaineering, and mixed climbing in the mountains.

The spectrum of approach shoes and mountain boots shown below cover the full range of terrain, styles and users climbing peaks under 6000 meters.

Fast and Lightweight

Durable, Protective, and Sturdy

Terrain types and footwear choice

Footwear choice is greatly affected by the terrain you are navigating and the amount of time spent on each type of terrain. If you are just crossing flat snow, you might manage with an approach shoe and lightweight crampon. If you are starting to climb steeper snow or spending considerable time on snow, ice, or mixed terrain, you will need to move up to footwear that offers greater support, rigidity, and protection to suit the terrain.

1. For mountain paths, snow walking and scrambling up to low 5th class, choose low top approach shoes, high top approach shoes, or ultralight mountain boots. If you are spending extended periods of time on snow, something with a high top and that is waterproof will keep your feet dry. If your ankles are prone to rolling then choose high top footwear that is more supportive.
2. For mixed terrain that involves climbing steep snow or mixed snow/ice/rock, choose mountain boots with a heel welt for semi-automatic crampon compatibility or a heel and toe welt for automatic crampon compatibility. If the terrain is mostly low angle snow with some scrambling and mixed climbing then choose the lightest mountain boot, but if the terrain includes extended periods of front pointing then it makes sense to choose a stiffer mountain boot.
3. For vertical 5th class, choose approach shoes or rock climbing shoes depending on difficulty and climber competency.
4. For ice climbing, choose specialized ice mountain boots that have automatic crampon compatibility (heel and toe welt).

Footwear construction

Mountain terrain chews up shoes; harsh edges, scree, and granite blocks can destroy a running shoe in a single trip. The toughest boots are covered with vulcanized rubber, which is hard-wearing but heavy. A hybrid footwear choice combines strips of rubber with other materials to offer a balance between durability, breathability, and weight. The rigidity of a shoe will greatly affect its performance with a crampon, especially in technical terrain. Ensure your footwear choice is rigid enough to have a crampon attached securely, even during use.

• Upper material: Leather is a good durable choice if you expect to jam your shoes into cracks or travel through scree. Synthetic shoes dry more quickly, are lighter, and are more breathable than leather (unless paired with a waterproof breathable membrane; the membrane will most greatly reduce breathability).
• Waterproofing: Choose a boot with a waterproof breathable membrane (e.g. Gore-Tex) if you will be traveling over snow or wet areas. Waterproofness is only useful if snow/wetness will not enter the top of your footwear. Waterproof breathable membranes make shoes less breathable and slower to dry, so if you expect to get snow over the top of your low top shoes, don't choose a waterproof shoe. Apply a product like Nikwax Fabric and Leather Proof Spray On to increase the water repellency of footwear helping prevent the absorption of water into the outer material of your shoes.
• Insulation: The insulation within a boot and its overall ability to retain heat can vary greatly. It is crucial to ensure your footwear protects your toes against the cold. However, the extra insulation required for colder temperatures often increases the weight of a boot and makes them less packable. Match the insulation rating of a boot to the climate and weather you will be experiencing.
• Sole, toe box, and side rubber: High-traction rubber is used for grip on the sole, while layers of protective rubber — forming the rand — cover high-abrasion areas, such as the sides of the boot, the heel cup, and the toe box.
• Rigidity: Ensure that your footwear choice has the right rigidity for the terrain you will be traveling across and is compatible with your crampon choice. Approach shoes are on the softer end of the spectrum and can only be paired with specific crampons while rigid boots pair well with most crampons. Choose softer footwear for walking and scrambling and stiffer footwear for kicking steps in snow, front pointing, and mixed climbing.
• Gaiter: Boots built for the mountains may have anything from a minimalist built-in gaiter, designed to keep out debris and snow, to a full gaiter that protects the entire boot. If you are using high top approach shoes, or the built-in gaiter is too minimalist to effectively keep out snow, then consider adding a low top gaiter into your system to keep snow out of your boots. For summer applications, gaiters made of softshell material are more breathable than waterproof gaiters and still effectively keep snow or debris out of your boots.
• Heel Welt/Toe Welt: Heel welts and toe welts are crampon attachment points that allow secure crampon attachment enabling increased climbing performance. The vast majority of mountain boots have a heel welt, while only mountain boots built for mixed or ice climbing have a toe welt.

Footwear weight and packability

The trade-off between weight vs. support, durability, and stability is challenging to balance. If it's too heavy, you will move slower or if it's too light, you might struggle to navigate terrain. Be certain that you select footwear based on the terrain and objectives, then look for a lightweight version that offers the support you need. For example, do you need support for front pointing up a long couloir or do you want something more minimalist, so your footwear fits more easily in your pack during technical rock climbing pitches? User experience and user weight also factor into footwear choice. A lighter weight person that is less hard on their gear may choose lighter weight footwear while a heavier weight person, who is harder on their gear, but able to carry more, may choose more durable, supportive, and heavier options.

• Lightweight Approach Shoes (W's <400g; M's <500g): Ideal for speed and agility on easier trails, low angle snow, and scrambling terrain. They are quite packable, making them ideal for carrying in a pack while climbing.
• Lightweight Mountain Boots (W's 400-550g; M's 500-650g): Strike a balance between speed, protection, and stability. Modern mountain footwear from specialized manufacturers combines the best of both worlds. Some ultralight mountain boots like the Aequilibrium speed combine gaiters with a low top boot for increased packability.
• Midweight Mountain Boots (W's 550-700g; M's 650-800g): Provide stability and protection on challenging or complex terrain. Better for front pointing and mixed climbing, but less packable and heavier in the pack.

Choosing the right crampon

Crampon Binding Types

I. Strap-on Crampons (Petzl Flexlock / Grivel New-Classic / Camp Universal)

These are the most versatile and can be used with a wide range of footwear as attachment does not require heel or toe welts.They use straps to secure the crampon to the front and back of the shoe.

II. Hybrid Crampons (Petzl Leverlock / Grivel New-Matic / Camp Semi-Automatic)

These have a combination of straps on the front and a rear bale attachment, requiring a heel welt to secure. They provide more security and are suitable for boots with semi-rigid soles.

III. Step-in Crampons

These require boots with a heel welt and a toe welt for secure attachment. They are ideal for rigid mountaineering boots designed for technical climbs and ice climbing.

Crampon Linking System

1. Metal crampon bar: Most crampons use a bar to link the front and back section of the crampon. Mountain boots are rigid enough to work well with crampons constructed with a metal crampon bar. Approach shoes and runners are too soft to work well with this type of crampon whereas large boots flex while the crampons stay straight resulting in the footwear twisting out of the crampon. Some linking bars such as the Flex Crampon Linking Bar are more flexible and made to work with large boots or boots with more flex.
2. Flexible linking system: Select few crampons like the Blue Ice Harfang and Petzl Leopard utilize a textile strap or cord to link the front and back sections. This allows for both weight savings and a more compact size when packed. The Petzl Leopard crampons use cord to link the front and back section of the crampon. The innovative strap system loops the cord-tec into the “basket” allowing the crampon to attach to soft shoes and bend with them.

Crampon Construction

Materials: Crampons are typically made of either aluminum or steel for the frame and points. Climbers often face a trade-off of lightness and durability; aluminum is lighter but not as durable or strong compared to steel. For challenging and technical terrain, steel crampons are recommended due to their durability and strength. Aluminum crampons are suitable for general mountain terrain, snow and glacier crossings where steep climbing is minimal and weight + packability factor is higher.

Number of points: When choosing crampons, consider the number and arrangement of points, including front points and secondary points. More points generally offer better traction on ice and steep terrain, but they may also increase the weight and complexity of the crampons. 10 point crampons are general mountaineering crampons designed for walking over lower angle terrain. For steeper terrain, secondary points are added behind the front points to add stability and bite on steeper terrain, making 12 points. Ice climbing crampons may have 14 or more points and various point configurations to further increase bite and stable placement for climbing ice.

Horizontal vs Vertical front points: Crampon front points come in one of two configurations. Horizontal front points, used in mountaineering crampons, provide a more secure purchase in snow as they displace your weight over a greater area. Vertical front points, with their knife-like shape, are designed to easily penetrate ice. They also offer added security with serrated teeth on their undersides, which prevent them from skating out of the ice. This makes vertical front points ideal for climbing ice.

Example footwear and crampon pairings

La Sportiva TX4 Low Top Approach Shoe + Black Diamond Distance Spike Traction Device + Black Diamond Distance Gaiter

Terrain Application: Scramble peaks with approaches that cross non-technical glaciers of mostly bare ice. (e.g. Sky Pilot, Mount Sir Donald)

Advantages: Low cost, lightweight, durable, and comfortable on a hot day. Approach shoes like the La Sportiva TX4 low top are built for scrambling and mountain approach: leather material, laces to the toe, and a sole designed for scrambling and easy snow travel. Approach shoes are less expensive than mountain boots. Low top approach shoes are relatively nimble and comfortable for walking. Traction devices with spikes will provide traction on bare ice as long as it is not too steep. They are less expensive than crampons, lightweight, packable, and relatively durable since they are made of steel. The Black Diamond Distance Gaiter is enough to keep gravel and some snow spray out of your shoes keeping your feet dry and preventing pesky gravel in your shoes.

Disadvantages: Low top approach shoes will not keep out snow if you expect to travel over snowfields. Even when worn with a gaiter snow pushes up under the gaiter and into your shoes. Traction devices do not have long enough spikes to provide traction in snow and they do not have front points for ascending steep slopes.

La Sportiva TX4 Mid Approach Shoe + Petzl Leopard Crampon + Black Diamond Talus Gaiter

Terrain Application: Scramble peaks and alpine climbing approaches crossing snowfields or low angle glaciers. (e.g. Bugaboos approaches to rock climbs)

Advantages: Lightweight and packable. The La Sportiva TX4 Mid are lightweight and packable, but also are high top and waterproof to keep your feet dry on snowy approaches. While the TX4 Mid do have a waterproof breathable membrane they are still less warm than mountain boots; perfect for summer objectives. The Petzl Leopard Crampons attach well to approach shoes and are light and packable. The Black Diamond Talus Gaiter is a low top gaiter that, in combination with high top approach shoes, keeps snow and loose rock out of your boots. This combination of footwear is appropriate for approaches across snowfields and non-technical glaciers.

Disadvantages: Approach shoes are soft and will twist out of the crampons if you try to use this setup for steep, technical snow and ice approaches. Likewise this setup is not appropriate for mixed climbing. The Leopards are 10 point, aluminum crampons lacking the strength and point configuration for mixed climbing. Aluminum crampons are not durable and cannot be re-sharpened, so they are not the right choice if you don't like taking your crampons off on rocky sections between snow.

La Sportiva Aequilibrium or Aequilibrium Speed + Grivel Air Tech Crampon

Terrain Application: Alpine climbing objectives moving thorough technical terrain that involves glacier travel, scrambling, and some snow couloirs or easy mixed snow and rock.

Advantages: Relatively lightweight and affordable, this kit is stiff enough to handle some couloir climbing but also not too heavy if you need to carry it in your pack on the climb. The La Sportiva Aequilibrium is a full height boot offering more support and stiffness if you expect more time in couloirs while the Aequilibrium Speed is an ankle height boot that is more nimble, ultralight and compressible for storage in your pack. Both the Aequilibrium and Aequilibrium Speed are warmer than approach shoes for travel in colder weather and both are compatible with hybrid crampons offering more secure leverlock heel attachment. The Grivel Air Tech is an ultralight aluminum crampon with 12 points for more performance on steeper snow.

Disadvantages: Waterproof boots, especially those with gaiters, are warmer than approach shoes. The La Sportiva Aequilibrium Speed is a low top, so it is less supportive than other mountain boots. Aluminum crampons are not as durable or strong as steel crampons, and aluminum front points do not penetrate ice as well as steel crampons. Durability and strength are compromised to decrease weight.

Scarpa Ribelle Tech 3 HD + Petzl Irvis Hybrid or Camp XLC Nanotech Semi-Automatic Crampon

Terrain Application: This premium kit is designed for the technical alpinist moving fast and light and climbing a full range of terrain including scrambling, technical glaciers, and mixed climbing.

Advantages: Lightweight for the terrain application. The Ribelle Tech are made for moving fast so feel less clunky than other mountain boots on the trail. Rigid enough for mixed climbing, waterproof and warm enough for cold days, this boot can do it all. The Irvis hybrid are 10 point crampons that shave weight with an aluminum heel but maintain the strength of a steel forefoot for mixed climbing. The Camp XLC Nanotech are 12 point crampons combining aluminum for weight savings with steel front points for ice penetration and frontpoint strength.

Disadvantages: $$$ Premium materials go into products that are both technical and lightweight. The aluminum components of both crampons are not as durable or rigid as steel.

Scarpa Zodiac Tech + Petzl Vasak Leverlock Universal

Terrain Application: Summer mountaineering and alpine climbing.

Advantages: A relatively lightweight summer alpine boot paired with 12 point steel crampons provides a good all round, durable system. Stiff enough boots for ascending couloirs and strong enough crampons for mixed climbing. Great for climbing objectives when you expect to wear your boots and crampons for the majority of the climb.

Disadvantages: If your goal is to climb alpine rock climbs and you need to carry these boots and crampons in your pack they will be heavy and bulky compared to the other kits shown above.

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¹ Scree is a mass of small loose stones that form or cover a slope on a mountain.