Lead image: Alex Ratson, @aratson · Climber: Steve Winnas, @steve_winnas · Route: Sole Mate 5.10b
This list isn’t about grades or discipline—sport, trad, or mixed; they all take a back seat here. Instead, it celebrates position, atmosphere, and the experience of climbing where land meets sea.
These routes are defined by the rhythm of waves below, the faint taste of salt in the air, and sweeping views across Howe Sound. The setting is undeniably world-class. Climbing here, especially in the golden hours as the sun drops and the rock glows orange, creates moments that linger long after you leave the wall.
Consider this a must-do list for climbers who value perspective over difficulty, and who measure a great day not only by the send, but by the view, the light, and the memories made. While we could have limited this to boat-access climbs, we’ve intentionally included a range of access options for those with more terrestrial, non-seafaring legs.
Agonal 5.11c · Lower Malamute
An incredible three-pitch climb that demands precise, technical footwork as it follows spectacular dyke features across the wall. Thrilling for both leader and follower, the route feels far longer than it actually is, all while the ocean stretches behind you. A true Malamute classic.
Sole Mate 5.10b · Seal Cove
Traverse just above the waterline to the belay, keeping your rope clear of the water. From there, climb a mix of gear-protected cracks and classic Squamish slab. The comfortable top-out offers the perfect spot to sit back and take in the stunning ocean views.
The Queen of Capilano 5.11b · Bowen Island
Fun climbing on featured rock in an amazing location, this route makes the trip across worth it. The pump will build on this gently overhanging route; bring a stick clip for the first bolt.
Mick Jigger 5.12a · Canoe Cliff
A future shoo-in for any Top 100 list, this steep and technical line sits in a beautiful setting. First ascended via solo aid, it was later bolted and has since become one of the best sport routes around. During our research, several climbers singled it out as a must-do, placing it high on their tick lists. High and well-deserved praise in a truly world-class setting.
La Bella Vida 5.11c · Anvil Island
A quest upward that offers a variety of styles, each demanding solid technical skill. As you climb, remember this line was bolted on lead, then take a moment to appreciate the setting, perched in the heart of Howe Sound. The first-ascensionist team felt the Anvil experience surpassed any other Squamish crag.
Neo Classical 5.10b · Copper Cove
Watch the tides as you reach the bottom belay. From here, head up a beautiful dyke in an amazing setting, searching for natural protection before the first bolt. This mixed sport-and-trad line pulls over roofs and onto the face above mid-wall. You’ll need to work hard to find the best holds in a sea of poor options; this effort defines the very nature of the climb.
Silver Surfer 5.11c · Quartz Pillar
This famous line climbs a striking white granite pillar rising straight from the sea, delivering some of the most scenic positions above Howe Sound. Starting just above sea level, the route offers wandering movement up smooth stone, blending sport climbing with a few small gear placements.
Pirate Arete 5.11a · Smugglers Cove
Rap in from above to a small rock-island ledge hovering just above the water—a striking place to begin. From here, launch upward through a demanding opening to the arête, then flow through 30 metres of face climbing, punctuated by a brief finger-to-hand crack, before easing into a gentler finish. A quiet gem, well worth the hike, and one that sees little traffic in any given year.
Honourable Bouldering Mentions
Majestic V6 · Britannia Beach
Instagram-famous and a celebrated deep-water solo, Majestic is a “not-to-be-missed on a warm day” classic. The problem overhangs the ocean, starting on huge holds before traversing right into a cruxy throw and a committing mantel finish directly above Howe Sound. No crash pads are needed, but be sure to check the tide and be prepared for a swim.
The Water Traverse V2 · Lighthouse Park
Grab your swimming kit and traverse out over the waves—a wonderful experience on basalt jugs and good edges just above the ocean. On a warm day, take a victory dunk from the top of the cliff. Hope you flash it or you’re going to get wet!
Honourable Deep-Water Solo Mention
The Pirate 5.12c/d · Lions Bay
The middle line of the Cliff Jump Wall crag starts on good holds, followed by a precise, powerful crux that guards the top-out with a semi-serious ocean plunge below. Higher tide helps with the fear factor but forces a high traverse start. A warm day is required, but this is possibly the most memory-making climb on the list.
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