Introduction
Whether you’re a Squamish local, a Vancouver gym devotee, a Canmore ice climber, or love the sport anywhere across Canada, there’s always something new to learn. At Climb On Equipment, we’ve watched the sport evolve over the years, not just in grades, but in knowledge, community, and inclusivity.
We’ve also seen training tips come and go. This list covers ten common training myths that have been busted, insights every climber should know to climb smarter, safer, and stronger.
1. Strength training makes you bulky - Busted
Worried about getting bulky? Don’t be.
The new wave of climbers all incorporate strength training, and gaining noticeable bulk is actually quite difficult; it requires a lot of protein, carbs, and dedicated effort with significant weight. Adding a well-rounded strength program will strengthen your whole body, and you’ll feel it as you climb: from better tension throughout your back and core, to generating more power, to moving more efficiently on difficult holds.
The key is not to focus only on your fingers; make your entire system stronger for climbing that feels effortless and powerful.
2. The 1990s called, they regret calorie counting
Images of famous climbers from the 1980s and 1990s often show extremely thin athletes. Thankfully, the trend of running a constant calorie deficit has largely passed. While climbing is a strength-to-weight ratio sport, consistently under-fueling can lead to injuries, long-term health problems, and eating disorders.
The takeaway: eat healthy, eat well, and fuel your body fully — your performance and long-term health depend on it.
3. Max, Max, Max
True one-rep max attempts are often reserved for competitions or are only tried infrequently in most power sports. In climbing, however, max pulls, hangs, and boulder problems are often the norm.
Operating at 60–90% of your max, depending on your years of training, is safer, builds technique and strength, and still prepares you for a max cycle when your schedule allows.
4. No Days OFF - No weeks OFF
Grinding through days on routes, boards, hangboards, or campusing week after week and expecting gains is madness, yet for a while, it was seen as a badge of honour: seven days a week in the gym, month after month!
Take some time off, let your body heal, nurse minor injuries, and schedule deload weeks. After all, only mad dogs and Englishmen never rest.
5. There is one king!
Is finger strength (the king) important? Absolutely. But imagine a rocket with a steel tip and the rest made of marshmallows. Bulletproof fingers without the ability to pull, lock off, or stabilize through your shoulders, core, and back are a recipe for frustration.
Too often, we see small, light, steel-tendoned climbers struggling on problems because climbing is a movement-based sport, not just a test of grip strength. Step back and look at what isn’t working in the whole chain, then train that.
And yes… those 8mm pull-ups do look impressive on Instagram, though.
6. Feet are for walking
The modern board style is powerful and dynamic, focusing on latching holds in unusual ways. While this is great for developing contact strength and raw horsepower, outdoor climbing often demands far more subtle footwork and movement skills.
Extra power alone doesn’t always get you up a route; it can lead to faster exhaustion and misplaced expectations when grades don’t transfer. Spend time learning to move, weight, shift, and connect the top of your body to the bottom. Push through your feet; don’t pull through your arms.
7. 10 Jumping Jacks
With limited time and fresh problems on the wall, as Bruce Buffer would say, “IIIIIT’S TIIIIIME!” to try hard. You’ve done ten jumping jacks — so it’s go time, right?
Not quite. Skipping a proper warm-up is a fast track to poor performance and injury. Both muscles and tendons need time to get blood flowing and feel ready. Slow recruitment, incremental loading, and some mat work for movement and mobility should all be combined to help you climb better and reduce injuries.
8. One More Rep. One More Problem.
“If I stay longer in the gym, I’ll get better than everyone else.”
Don’t fall into the trap that more is always better. Once your performance starts to drop off, recognize that it’s time to change focus — and time to go home. That three-hour session isn’t helping anymore. It’s done. Go home.
9. You've earned that beer
Post-workout myths are as numerous! Some people think what you eat after a workout doesn’t matter. On the other hand, some people think you should eat nothing but a big steak. The truth is somewhere in the middle.
It is important to give your body the nutrients it needs to achieve optimal performance after all workouts. The days of hitting the gym or crag, then having a beer are gone, the buzz sure feels great, but your recovery will be hampered.
10. Hitting the gym early
This myth has been debunked. Everyone has different natural circadian rhythms, which play a bigger role in performance than the time of day. Some climbers perform better in the morning, others at night. The key is to learn what works for you, whether you’re a morning person or a night owl.
Training Myths Summary
Climbing is as much about smart training as it is about hard work. Busting these common myths shows that strength, technique, and recovery are all pieces of the same puzzle.
We’ve seen climbers progress faster, stay healthier, and enjoy the sport more when they focus on whole-body strength, proper recovery, smart nutrition, and movement quality — rather than blindly chasing maxes, volume, or outdated trends.
The takeaway? Consistency is king, listen to your body, train intelligently, and find what works for you.
Lead Image Courtesy of Tension Climbing
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