Top Belaying with a Progress Capture Device (PCD) and a G-Screamer

Climb On Knowledge · Tech Tips

Progress capture devices have traditionally been discouraged for belaying a second on multipitch climbs. The introduction of a manufacturer-approved configuration combining the Edelrid SPOC with the G-SCREAMER has brought renewed attention to this technique.

Technical Disclaimer

Technical advice is provided for general guidance only. Equipment selection and use depend on individual circumstances, conditions and user competency. Always read and follow the manufacturer's instructions, inspect equipment before use, and ensure you have the appropriate training and skills for your intended application.

Why Are PCDs Being Reconsidered?

For years, using progress capture devices (PCDs) to belay a second climber on a multipitch route has been discouraged due to concerns that the forces generated during a fall could damage or even sever the rope. Many PCDs use toothed cams or pinching mechanisms that, under certain conditions, can damage a rope under load.

These devices have valuable applications in systems such as crevasse rescue and hauling, where their ability to capture progress efficiently is extremely useful. However, these applications do not necessarily expose the devices to the same dynamic loading that can occur when catching a climber's fall.

With the development of force-limiting tools and advances in rope construction, using PCDs to belay a second in combination with an energy absorber is receiving renewed attention from equipment manufacturers and guiding organisations alike.

A Changing Approach

Expect to see these devices becoming more common on mountain routes and multipitch climbs near you.

What's the Difference Between a Belay Device and a Progress Capture Device?

The key distinction is that a progress capture device is designed to capture movement in one direction and prevent the rope or load from moving backwards. A belay device is intended to manage a rope to protect a climber from a fall.

These functions can overlap in some systems, but that doesn't make the devices interchangeable. A PCD's ability to hold a stationary load does not, by itself, establish that it is suitable for catching a dynamic fall.

Advantages of a PCD

Using a progress capture device, such as the Edelrid SPOC or Petzl MICRO TRAXION and NANO TRAXION, to bring up a second has attracted interest for several reasons.

Low Friction

Rope can feed efficiently through the device, making it useful when bringing up a second climber.

Efficient Rope Management

The device captures progress as the climber moves, reducing the need to repeatedly manage slack using some conventional methods.

Potential for Two-Climber Systems

Some configurations can accommodate two climbers using separate PCDs. Such systems require careful consideration of the anchor arrangement, loading and the consequences of an energy absorber deploying.

Hauling Capability

A PCD can also be incorporated into a suitable hauling system if the second climber needs assistance.

Disadvantages of a PCD

Rope Damage Under Load

Toothed cams can damage a rope's sheath or core under high loads. Slack in the system can increase the severity of loading if a climber falls.

Belaying Limitations

A progress capture device is not automatically a belay device. For example, the Petzl MICRO TRAXION and NANO TRAXION are not conventional belay devices. Do not assume that the technique described for one manufacturer's system applies to another device.

Limited Lowering Control

A PCD does not provide the same straightforward, controlled lowering function as some conventional belay devices. Lowering or transferring a load may require additional equipment and specific technical skills.

What's New and Why Does It Matter?

The New Approach

The Edelrid G-SCREAMER is a compact, lightweight sling with an integrated energy absorber designed to reduce peak forces during a fall.

When combined with the Edelrid SPOC in the configuration specified by the manufacturer, the G-SCREAMER helps reduce the risk of rope damage if the second climber falls.

The combination does not eliminate every risk or make every loading scenario safe. Rope condition, system geometry, slack, device compatibility and the circumstances of a fall remain important considerations.

The Big Change

Edelrid has tested this combination and explicitly documented belaying a second climber with the SPOC when used with the G-SCREAMER. The manufacturers' instructions illustrate this application.

Why It Matters

This is a significant development in technical climbing equipment. Rather than treating all PCD belaying configurations alike, Edelrid specifies a particular combination for belaying a second climber. It represents an important development in lightweight systems for multipitch and alpine climbing.

The Edelrid G-SCREAMER and SPOC combination. Refer to the current manufacturer instructions for the approved configuration.

The Set-Up

Before You Begin

The following is a general overview, not a standalone belaying procedure.

1. Establish the Anchor Connection

Start with a suitable, secure anchor at the top of the pitch. Connect the G-SCREAMER to the anchor using a locking carabiner.

2. Attach the SPOC

Using a second locking carabiner, attach the SPOC to the bottom connection point on the G-SCREAMER, as shown in the manufacturer's diagram.

3. Install and Check the Rope

Open the SPOC and insert the rope in the correct orientation. Confirm that the device engages in the blocking direction and allows the rope to feed in the intended direction.

4. Check the System Before Use

Complete the process and check before putting the climber on belay. Once the system has been checked, communicate clearly with your climbing partner and confirm that they are on belay then keep slack to a minimum.

Other Considerations Worth Noting

Can You Belay Two People From the Top at the Same Time?

Two SPOC's side by side in a single locking carabiner at the end of the G-Screamer can belay two climbers using separate ropes, however this is an advanced technique used by professionals. Note, If an energy absorber deploys while two climbers are attached, it could significantly complicate the system. Climber weights, traverses, cruxes near the top and the consequences of a fall should all be considered.

Does Icing Affect Performance?

Yes. Moisture, ice and contamination can interfere with any PCD's ability to engage correctly. Avoid using the system in conditions where icing could prevent the device from gripping the rope or interfere with its operation.

Do Rope Age and Wear Matter?

Yes. Older, heavily worn or damaged ropes may be more vulnerable to damage under load. Inspect the rope carefully and use new ropes.

Rope age alone does not establish whether a rope is suitable for use. Its condition, history, construction and compatibility with the device all matter.

Is the System Reversible?

Not easily in every situation. Reconfiguring a loaded system or transferring a load requires appropriate technical knowledge and experience.

If using the SPOC and G-SCREAMER combination, make sure you understand the relevant load-transfer techniques and have the skills to manage the system safely. Plan for foreseeable complications before committing to the system.

The Takeaway

Progress capture devices offer clear advantages for efficient rope management and hauling applications. The Edelrid SPOC and G-SCREAMER combination is a notable development because the manufacturer specifies its use for belaying a second climber in the documented configuration.

That does not make all PCDs suitable for belaying, nor does it remove the risks associated with dynamic loading, rope damage or system complexity.

Before adopting this technique, understand the system's limitations and ensure you have the training and experience to use it appropriately.

Technical advice is provided for general guidance only. Always follow the current manufacturer's instructions and applicable equipment standards.