Choosing the right footwear and crampon combination can make a big difference in the mountains. In this video, ACMG guide Brian Shannon walks through several proven pairings, from lightweight approach shoes and traction devices to technical mountaineering boots with steel crampons, explaining where each system performs best.
Scarpa Crux + Black Diamond Access Spikes
Terrain Application: Scramble peaks with approaches that cross non-technical glaciers of mostly bare ice. (e.g. Sky Pilot, Mount Sir Donald)
Advantages: Low cost, lightweight, durable, and comfortable on a hot day. Approach shoes like the La Sportiva Scarpa Crux are built for scrambling and mountain approach: leather material, laces to the toe, and a sole designed for scrambling and easy snow travel. Approach shoes are less expensive than mountain boots. Low top approach shoes are relatively nimble and comfortable for walking. Traction devices such as the Black Diamond Access Spikes will provide traction on bare ice as long as it is not too steep. They are less expensive than crampons, lightweight, packable, and relatively durable since they are made of steel. The Black Diamond Distance Gaiter is enough to keep gravel and some snow spray out of your shoes keeping your feet dry and preventing pesky gravel in your shoes.
Disadvantages: Low top approach shoes will not keep out snow if you expect to travel over snowfields. Even when worn with a gaiter snow pushes up under the gaiter and into your shoes. Traction devices do not have long enough spikes to provide traction in snow and they do not have front points for ascending steep slopes.
Also worth considering: La Sportiva TX4 ST or Arc'teryx Konseal approach shoes
La Sportiva TX4 Mid + Petzl Leopard
Terrain Application: Scramble peaks and alpine climbing approaches crossing snowfields or low angle glaciers. (e.g. Bugaboos approaches to rock climbs)
Advantages: Lightweight and packable. The La Sportiva TX4 Mid are lightweight and packable, but also are high top and waterproof to keep your feet dry on snowy approaches. While the TX4 Mid do have a waterproof breathable membrane they are still less warm than mountain boots; perfect for summer objectives. The Petzl Leopard Crampons attach well to approach shoes and are light and packable. The Black Diamond Talus Gaiter is a low top gaiter that, in combination with high top approach shoes, keeps snow and loose rock out of your boots. This combination of footwear is appropriate for approaches across snowfields and non-technical glaciers.
Disadvantages: Approach shoes are soft and will twist out of the crampons if you try to use this setup for steep, technical snow and ice approaches. Likewise this setup is not appropriate for mixed climbing. The Leopards are 10 point, aluminum crampons lacking the strength and point configuration for mixed climbing. Aluminum crampons are not durable and cannot be re-sharpened, so they are not the right choice if you don't like taking your crampons off on rocky sections between snow.
Also worth considering: Black Diamond Neve Strap Crampons, Scarpa Rapid XT Mid GTX approach shoes
Scarpa Zodiac Tech LT GTX + Petzl Irvis Hybrid
A full mountaineering boot that offers more support and waterproofing than approach shoes, paired with a lightweight half-aluminum, half-steel crampon.
Terrain Application: Summer mountaineering and alpine climbing. (e.g. Tantalus Travers)
Advantages: A relatively lightweight summer alpine boot paired with the the 10 point Irvis hybrid crampons that shave weight with an aluminum heel but maintain the strength of a steel forefoot for mixed climbing. Stiff enough boots for ascending couloirs and strong enough crampons for mild mixed climbing. Great for climbing objectives when you expect to wear your boots for the majority of the climb.
Disadvantages: If your goal is to climb alpine rock climbs and you need to carry these boots and crampons in your pack they will be heavy and bulky compared to the other kits shown above.
Also worth considering: La Sportiva Aequilibrium LT GTX boot, Blue Ice Griffin 10 Crampons
Scarpa Ribelle Tech 3 HD + Petzl Sarken
A full technical mountaineering boot for more serious objectives, paired with a steel crampon.
Terrain Application: Designed for the technical alpinist moving fast through a full range of terrain including scrambling, technical glaciers, and mixed climbing. (e.g. Silverhorn on Mount Athabasca or Patterson Spur / Kain Face on Mount Robson).
Advantages: Lightweight for the terrain application. The Ribelle Tech are made for moving fast so feel less clunky than other mountain boots on the trail. Rigid enough for mixed climbing, waterproof and warm enough for cold days, this boot can do it all. The Sarken are a 12 point crampon with a hybrid horizontal/vertical front points that enable them to to climb steep snow, neve or even ice well.
Disadvantages: For many lower elevation or terrain that is primarily not on snow these boots might feel a bit warm. They will also lack the same high level durability of the leather boot options.
Also worth considering: Grivel Air Tech New-Matic EVO crampon
Build Your Own Crampon and Boot Combination
When pairing a crampon with a shoe or boot, match the flexibility of the crampon with the stiffness of the footwear. As terrain becomes steeper and more technically challenging, a rigid boot will perform better with a more rigid crampon attached.
About Brian Shannon
Brian Shannon is an ACMG Alpine Guide, climbing instructor, and mountain safety specialist based in Squamish, British Columbia. With more than eight years of professional guiding experience throughout Western Canada, Brian specializes in helping climbers develop skills, build confidence, and pursue mountain objectives safely. Learn more about private instruction, alpine skills courses, and custom guiding at Brian Shannon Guiding.
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