The Petzl NEOX

A new belay device that combines the security of an internal camming mechanism, which pinches the rope, with the ease of a wheel to feed slack. The NEOX was recently launched by Petzl, so we unboxed one as soon as possible and took it for a test drive. The NEOX looks like the ubiquitous GRIGRI but feels very different to use. The most commonly asked question about the NEOX is "How does it compare to the GRIGRI?" Before we answer that question, let's take a look at who this is for, some stats, and then we can dive into a review.

Neox Stats & Details

• Weight: 235g (GriGri = 175g)
• Price: $195.95 CAD (GriGri = $144.95)
• Rope Range: 8.5mm - 11mm (Same as GriGri)
• Material: ​​Aluminum side plates, stainless steel friction plate, cam, and wheel, recycled nylon handle
• Available Colours: Orange, Grey, Black

What is the Neox?

The NEOX is an assisted-blocking belay device ideal for both gym and outdoor lead climbing. It features an integrated wheel for smooth and quick slack payout and an ergonomic handle for comfortable descent control. The cam-assisted blocking mechanism ensures a secure belay by pinching and blocking the rope during falls.

How does it work?

The NEOX has an integrated wheel that rotates, allowing the rope to feed slack quickly. The wheel will spin until the internal stops to click into place, and then the internal cam pinches down onto the rope, almost identically to how the GRIGRI works. 

How does it perform compared to a GRIGRI?

During our test, we compared the two devices side by side using a 9.5mm rope, an 8.7mm rope, and an 11mm static line. We took lead climbing falls on the dynamic ropes with excessive slack in the system to see how far it would slip. We pulled on both devices with ropes and accelerated them to compare, and we used it to work a sport route. Here are our unbiased thoughts:

• ALWAYS FOLLOW PETZL'S GOOD PRACTICES FOR BELAYING A LEAD CLIMBER; ALWAYS KEEP A HAND ON THE BRAKE SIDE OF THE ROPE.
• The biggest improvement is how smoothly and without interference the NEOX pays out slack. Even when we deliberately short-roped our leader, the device released easily with minimal effort by pulling a tiny bit on the rope or even easier by moving your hips forward. 
• The NEOX does not jam when paying out slack quickly, so you should belay using standard tube style device techniques, which may make the NEOX easier for newer climbers to adopt because no new skills will need to be learned.
• The integrated wheel literally "clicks" when pulling up on a tensioned line. Expect to hear this clicking sound at the crag when a leader has fallen and is pulling up on a tensioned rope being assisted by the belayer.
• The NEOX works best and most securely when a catch is initiated by the belayer's hand on the brake strand. A very light tension will stop the wheel from spinning and activate the internal cam, locking off similarly to the GRIGRI
• The NEOX catches quickly, even with excessive slack on the brake side of the rope. We tested this by tying a backup knot (out of view on camera) on the brake strand to check slippage and lock-up speed during improper use (hands-free on the brake strand). The NEOX caught within a few inches and resisted our attempts to make it fail. However, we observed more slippage with a lighter climber and high friction in the system, delaying the wheel stops' engagement. This re-affirmed the need to always keep a hand on the brake side of the rope.
• When we tested the NEOX and GRIGRI side by side, pulling on the strands to see which would catch first, the devices performed almost identically even with the thinner diameter rope.
• Lowering felt very similar to a GRIGRI.
• The extra weight and size were barely noticeable.

Final thoughts: The NEOX and GRIGRI are different devices and need to be treated differently. The security of the GRIGRI, which we love, came at the price of tricky rope handling. In certain climbing systems, we are seeking the security from a quick-to-lock-off device. At other times, you want a free-flowing, easy-feeding system. The NEOX is very close to being both but requires closer attention by the belayer. Pick your device accordingly.

Can you belay a second from the top down by connecting to the anchor?

Yes, Petzl has outlined this in the NEOX Technical Content. The device is very smooth, almost alarmingly smooth, when oriented in this manner, which is amazing. Be warned, as the wheel needs to reach a certain speed to activate. It's critical to be extra diligent with maintaining a firm grip on the rope. Our concern here is that on a lower-angle fall, such as slabs or mountain terrain, the acceleration will not be enough to trigger the integrated stops, and the second would potentially fall further if you don't trigger the device by holding the rope.

When belaying from above, you need to ensure the device is oriented correctly, and there is no interference that would compromise the function of the handle or the cam. Very skinny ropes in this application would move alarmingly fast through the device in both directions.

Worries and concerns

If you belay using the GRIGRI thumb and finger technique to give slack on a NEOX, essentially, you are disabling the cam, but the wheel still works! A fall during this moment would allow a lot of slippage, so your hand better be tight on the brake strand. If you are like me and very familiar with a GRIGRI, you will have to unlearn Petzl's recommended GRIGRI belay technique and start belaying as if it was a tube device but with the brake-assisted locking performance of the GRIGRI. 

Conclusion

For years, many companies have tried to dislodge the GRIGRI as the go-to device for sport climbing, but no one succeeded. The irony is that Petzl has now made a device that is better and will, in my humble opinion, take over as the number one brake-assisted belay device. We loved it; it will be added to my harness once my GRIGRI is worn out.

Afterthought... Can you rope solo on this device?

Petzl advises Self-belaying is not authorized for GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX. However we know some users will be curious of the NEOX in advanced rigging and rope solo systems, so here are our thoughts:

• The NEOX will slide up a fixed line much easier than a GRIGRI and with much less weight pulling down on the rope.
• The NEOX will lock like a GRIGRI but slip more on slower falls; this would be terrifying on a skinny rope or low speed fall.
• The NEOX is not a hands-free device.
• The wheel will feed slack very easily in both directions, and in a lead rope solo system, this would have to be carefully managed.
• If something jams into the device, such as clothing, a backup device, the rock, other gear, then you could go for a dangerous ride and for that reason Petzl explicility states not to use the device for rope soloing or self-belaying techniques.