The New Edelrid Ohmega

The evolution continues, from belay resistor to belay assistant. Introducing the new Edelrid Ohmega, a device that not only balances weight differences between you and your climbing partner but also clips smoothly and protects both belayer and climber in a variety of situations, truly a game-changer!

Join Eric as he tests and reviews the Ohmega, takes test falls, and answers your questions from our “Ask Us Anything” social post to help you understand when and how to use this innovative new tool.

Summary

The Ohmega's primary function is to reduce forces on the belayer by adding resistance to a system when a leader falls. The resistance can be modified to three settings: 10kg, 20kg & 30kg, which in lbs, is approximately 22lbs, 44lbs and 66lbs. The Ohmega device weighs 190grams, which isn't much more than a heavy quickdraw and has a built-in pulley

These features address the drawbacks that its grandfather Ohm originally had: it is heavy, can't be modified, and clipping for the leader has to be slow and deliberate. The Ohmega has solved these problems.

Questions You Asked

You asked and we listened. Here are the answers to all the questions you asked us in our social feeds, through email, and in-person at the crags!

What is the difference between a Belay Resistor and a Belay Assistant?

A belay resistor primarily reduces the force a lighter belayer feels when catching a heavier climber's fall, but it doesn't offer additional functionality—it's a single-purpose tool designed for a specific scenario. A belay assistant, on the other hand, serves the same core purpose but adds versatility: it reduces friction, can be used for multi-pitch climbing, adjusts for teams with different weight ratios, and even helps when working a route. Because of these extra functions, it's far more adaptable and useful across a wider range of scenarios and climbing teams.

What's the difference between an Ohm and an Ohmega?

See the summary above, but in addition, our testing showed that the Ohmega still allows for more dynamic catches than the Ohm. One common complaint about the original Ohm was that it often resulted in a very hard catch, which could be jarring when the climber swung back into the wall.

Who is the Ohmega for?

Primarily for teams with a significant weight difference between partners. However, it's also a great tool for evenly matched teams looking for extra assistance, such as on cruxes near anchors in multi-pitch climbs or when a belayer needs to manage repeated falls while a leader works a route.

Is the Ohm now obsolete?

Not entirely, but we believe the Ohmega will replace the Ohm in most scenarios, except perhaps in gyms or other high-use environments where simplicity and durability matter most.

Does it make things safer?

Yes. The Ohmega not only protects the belayer but also the leader, who is less likely to be dropped because the belayer isn't subjected to sudden high forces.

What happens when you fall directly on the Ohmega?

The Ohmega still works if you fall directly on it. The internal lever engages against the rope, adding friction and resistance to protect both the climber and the belayer.

Can it be used for multi-pitch climbing?

Yes! At only 190 g, it's light enough for multi-pitch climbs and will protect the belayer from high forces if the leader falls near the anchor or is heavier. Use it directly on bolts (never on trad gear) and extend your belayer down to avoid being hit if necessary.

Can you use this for traditional climbing?

We don't recommend it. The Ohmega generates an upward pull, which could rip out the gear. Edelrid advises using it only on bolts. We also suggest using a Slider Carabiner or locking carabiner to ensure it stays connected.

Can this be used for top-rope climbing?

Yes, in two scenarios:

1. Clip it directly to the anchor with the rope running through it, backed up with a quickdraw, the Ohmega will then add extra resistance to even out weight differences.
2. Clip it to a bolt near the belayer, then run the rope up to the main anchor and down to the climber, an alternative way to add friction when top-roping.

Can this be used for top-rope soloing?

Nope, don't do it! (If you somehow make it work safely, please let us know. We'd love to see it!)

Does it release easily after a fall?

Yes, in two ways: Have the climber unweight the rope and move their hips down slightly; this allows the spring-loaded lever to disengage. Or have the belayer step forward to give a little slack as the climber starts up, wiggling the rope free.

Does the lead climber feel resistance when clipping?

No. We found it smooth and practically unnoticeable; it might even feel smoother than a quickdraw since the rope runs over a pulley.

Does it affect lowering a climber?

Yes, especially on the higher setting, it adds significant resistance, making lowering more controlled and easier. Depending on the leader's weight and the angle, the belayer may feel very little weight pulling on the rope.

What happens if you extend the Ohmega with a longer quickdraw?

Extending the device allows it to be pulled up more before fully engaging, which slightly changes its function. We found that a soft, dynamic catch works best when the belayer stands about 1 meter away, slightly offset from the device.

You've made it this far — now let's get geeky

Want to squeeze every bit of performance out of your Ohmega? We've pulled together the key resources you need to make it easy.

• Watch: OHMEGA: Basic Functions
• Watch: Can you give soft catches with common assisted braking resistors?
• Read Manual: Edelrid Ohmega User Manual

Check out the Edelrid Knowledge Base

Key Info

• Approved rope diameter: 8.6mm - 10.5mm
• Weight: 190g
• Three settings: 10kg, 20kg, 30kg