Author: Eric H.
Rope climbing can require a lot of gear depending on your chosen discipline, but the building blocks of all your climbing systems link back to the harness you choose. Each season the Climb On Buying Team selects the best designed harnesses from the leading manufacturers across all the climbing disciplines. Currently, we have over 30 options for you to choose from. This review focuses on 6 of the best harnesses available for the 2022 season ranging from pure lightweight performance options suitable for redpoint attempts to all-around harnesses suitable for anything from multi-pitching to training in the gym.
All the harnesses in this review will perform beyond your expectations which is why they were selected; however, we will look at the differences and explain their unique features. All the harnesses reviewed meet UIAA 105 Harness Standards, which is based on the European Standard EN 12277. While all the harnesses can be used across all the climbing disciplines, they will perform best in circumstances they were designed for. If you're spending an evening climbing routes in your local gym, or chasing the hardest redpoint on your 80m mega project, you will want to select your harness wisely.
Note: Climb On Equipment, selects products based on the expertise of our team. We comprise of climbers, athletes, guides, skiers and mountain rescuers. We then take the selected products and compare them in this independent review to help consumers make educated purchases. We are not paid for these reviews. This means that if we don't like a product feature or vice-versa, we will tell you! If we love a product, we will be out there using it next to you at the crag!
Fit
The secret to a proper fitting harness is taking the time to ensure the fit is suited to you and your body shape. Each harness will have some adjustability, but each brand and model will vary. The waist belt should be fitted snugly over the hips and iliac crest, while the belay loop and gear loops remain centred. The leg loops should fit snugly yet be comfortable and allow a good range of movement. Come into the store, try each one on, and hang in it. Understand how your weight is distributed across the waistband and leg loops, now imagine hanging in it for hours up on a wall or falling into it repeatedly over years of use and abuse.
Gender specific designs for both men and women make harnesses more comfortable to climb, fall, and hang in. The main differences are:
- The rise on women's harnesses is higher meaning the waist belt and leg loops are farther apart than men's harnesses. Therefore, men's harnesses have smaller belay loops.
- Men's harnesses tend to have straight waist bands, while women's harnesses curve outwards slightly, conveniently contouring to the hips.
- The waist belt of women's harnesses tend to be smaller for the same leg loop size (the waist to leg ratio is smaller).
Adam Ondra wearing the Black Diamond Airnet Harness in competition. Image Courtesy of Black Diamond Equipment.
When choosing a harness the key considerations are:
Intended Use. Before you start fitting a harness make sure you select a harness that has been designed for how you intend to use it. Taking a fly weight competition harness aid climbing will be an exercise in suffering, likewise taking a big wall harness to your local speed climbing competition will draw a few odd looks from the crowd. Manufacturers design harnesses with both the style of climbing and climber in mind, which can have a direct impact on having a good experience and achieving your climbing goals.
- Gym Climbing - Comfortable & mostly lightweight for short pitches.
- Sport & Competition Climbing - Lightweight and minimalist design.
- Traditional Climbing - Supportive with extra gear loops.
- Big Wall and Aid Climbing - Exceptional padding and support with extra gear loops.
- Ice Climbing and Alpine Climbing - Accommodates ice screws and is adapted for cold wet environments and layering systems.
- Mountaineering and Ski Touring - Extremely lightweight and can be donned while wearing crampons or skis.
Other Considerations
- Weight - Weight vs comfort and features.
- Price - Consider two speciality harnesses vs one all-rounder.
- Adjustability - Number of buckles and their design/type.
- Comfort - Support, padding, and weight distribution from the waist belt and leg loops.
- Gear loops - Configuration and ability to hold and organize gear.
- Environmental Impact - Sustainability and ethical stance of manufacturer.
| Petzl Corax | Black Diamond Momentum | Edelrid Jayne & Jay | Mammut Togir 2.0 |
Blue Ice Addax |
Petzl Sitta | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
| Price | $89.95 | $74.95 | $89.95 | $99 | $139.95 | $219.95 |
| Weight (g) | 470g | 300g | 368g | 367g | 140g | 250g |
| Intended Use | All-Round | All-Round | Sport / Trad / Gym | Sport / Trad / Alpine | Sport / alpine | Sport / Trad / Ice |
| Gear Loops | 4 | 4 | 4 | 2 + 2 low profile | 4 | 4 |
| Adjustability | 4 points | 3 Point | 3 Point | 3 Point | Waist only | Waist only |
| Gender | Unisex | W & M's | W & M's | W & M's | Unisex | Unisex |
| Sustainability | - | - | Bluesign certified materials | Bluesign certified materials | - | - |
| Ice Clippers | No | No | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Petzl Corax
The Corax is a comfortable harness that is a suitable all-rounder for winters in the gym, days cragging locally, and multi pitching. It's not intended to be used in wet or snowy conditions and the extra grams of foam and padding make it comfortable, although slightly heavy for the weight saving sport climber out there. It's well made by a leading manufacturer and organizes gear well with full size gear loops. It comes with a dual waist buckle, and adjustable leg loops allowing it to fit a wide range of people. High quality materials for excellent durability at this price range.
Our Verdict: A price conscious, comfortable and durable all-rounder with maximum adjustability. Not just for new climbers, experienced climbers on a budget will experience good performance from this harness.
Black Diamon Momentum Women's & Men's
The Momentum is our most affordable full-featured harness, making it a popular first purchase for many climbers. It comes in both women’s and men’s versions, with five sizes available in each. This, paired with its adjustable leg loops, makes it a harness that fits a wide range of body types. Four rigid, pressure-molded gear loops make racking a set of draws a breeze. However, due to their smaller size, these gear loops are less ideal for carrying a large trad rack. Lastly, if you’re just starting out, you can purchase this harness as part of a bundle that includes a belay device and a locking carabiner.
Our Verdict: Great value in a highly adjustable, supportive, and comfortable harness.
Edelrid Jayne and Jay
The Jayne (Women's) and Jay (Men's) harness is a great all-round rock climbing harness and only slightly higher in price than our entry level harnesses. Amortising the extra dollars over the life of the harness and voting for sustainability by how you spend your money will help drive the whole climbing industry towards lower impact manufacturing. This harness has a foam waistband that slides along the internal webbing allowing you to centre the belay loop while placing the foam comfortably on your hips. This fully featured harness can be used for sport climbing, gym climbing, or days out multi-pitching. Wear indicators on the belay loop and tie-in points for added safety. A high quality harness with the Bluesign certified product distinction that will last many years.
Our Verdict: Leading the industry with their commitment to sustainability while producing an innovative and well designed, comfortable harness.
Mammut Togir 2.0 Women's & Men's
The Mammut Togir (meaning smoke) 2.0 works for all rock climbing disciplines but is also suitable for alpine climbing, a versatile design which can be packed on all your vertical adventures. The split webbing design offers comfort by spreading the weight evenly across your hips and back while the flat, low profile design allows freedom of movement. It comes with two full gear loops on the front and 2 low profile loops on the back, plus a mini haul loop. The tie-in loop protector provides excellent longevity. Mammut has also made considerable efforts to change towards more sustainable production and the Togir 2.0 is made with over 90% Bluesign certified materials, which earns it the Bluesign certified product distinction.
Our Verdict: A well priced great all rounder that will take you beyond your sport and trad days, the design is thoughtful and environmentally conscious.
Blue Ice Addax
The Addax is the lightest harness in this review, weighing in at a mere 139 grams (size S)! Unlike many lightweight harnesses, the Addax takes a minimal-compromise approach to shedding weight. It features 4 full-size gear loops along with 2 ice clipper attachment points. With lightweight padding in the waist and legs, this harness is surprisingly comfortable for its weight class. That said, it’s not the kind of harness you’ll want to spend extended time in at a hanging belay. This is a specialty harness designed for climbers looking to push their limits by saving grams wherever possible. Whether at the sport crag, in the high alpine, or on ice, as well as for those competing. Shirtless power screams aren’t included, but if you’re giving 110% every time, this harness is for you.
Our Verdict: A speciality harness for those that know what they want... weight savings and red points.
Petzl Sitta
The Petzl Sitta is a unique harness. It competes with the best of the high-end sport climbing harnesses but is also suitable for cragging days, traditional climbing, and is an amazing alpine and ice climbing harness. If you want just one harness that can do it all, then the Sitta is for you. Every design feature has been thoughtfully added while reducing weight. The thinness and flexibility of the Sitta delivers unhindered freedom of movement, and it is extremely packable, freeing up room in your pack on the approach. Our only criticisms would be the lofty price and comfort during extended hanging belays - but let's face it, the Sitta is built for climbing freedom, not hanging around.
Our Verdict: Amazingly versatile, with awesome freedom of movement and packability. Top shelf performance and price tag.
Conclusion
There are a wide range of harnesses designed for every discipline and type of climber whether they are new to the sport, redpointing projects at the crag, or travelling to distant big walls in remote places. While most climbers look for a good all-round harness that will take them from the crag to the gym and back again, design features and ultimately the best fit will provide you with the best experience for your chosen style of climbing.
Still have questions? We love to talk gear. Come into the shop, give us a call, or shoot us a message. We'd be happy to help you find the right solution for your climbing goals.
Happy Climbing!
— From the Climb On Team
Leave a comment