Chalk is one of the simplest tools in a climber’s kit, yet it makes a huge difference in grip, confidence, and performance. The big question for new and experienced climbers alike: should you use loose chalk or liquid chalk? Let’s break it down.
Liquid Chalk
Pros
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Longer-lasting grip – Liquid climbing chalk dries fast thanks to the alcohol base and leaves a coating that sticks around longer than loose chalk..
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Less mess – No chalk clouds, no white streaks all over your clothes and gear. Indoor climbing gyms especially appreciate this.
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Good for layering – Works well as a base coat under loose chalk for extra staying power on long routes or hard burns.
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More hygienic – The alcohol (usually ethanol) doubles as a sanitizer, which is why many gyms leaned heavily on liquid chalk during COVID.
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Travel-friendly – Less chance of spilling everywhere compared to a chalk bag.
Cons
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Drying effect – The alcohol base can really dry out skin with frequent use, sometimes leading to splits.
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Slower to apply – Takes a few seconds to rub in and dry, not ideal mid-pitch.
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More expensive – Typically costs more per use than blocks or bags of loose chalk.
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Not as tactile – Some climbers feel it lacks that “fresh grip” texture of loose chalk. While some climbers prefer a chunky chalk feeling
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No mid-climb top-ups – Once you’ve applied, you can’t re-dip while on the wall.
Loose Chalk (Blocks, Balls, Powder)
Pros
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Quick, easy application – Dip in, climb on.
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Reapply mid-climb – Essential for longer routes or sweaty sessions.
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Cost-effective Chalk – Lower cost per use, especially when bought in bulk.
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Classic feel – Many climbers prefer the tactile “fresh grip” that loose climbing chalk delivers.
- Can be bought in Bulk Chalk Buckets.
Cons
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Messy – Chalk clouds, spills in your pack, and white streaks on rock; always use a chalk bag.
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Shorter-lasting – Needs frequent re-application.
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Gym restrictions – Some gyms restrict or ban loose chalk due to the mess factor.
What are the ingredients?
Loose Chalk:
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Almost always Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO₃) — the gold standard for moisture absorption and friction.
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Sometimes Calcium Carbonate (cheap filler) or trace drying agents.
Liquid Chalk:
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Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO₃) suspended in…
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Alcohol (ethanol or isopropyl) for quick-drying application.
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(Sometimes) Water to balance thickness.
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(Sometimes) Binders or resins to help chalk stick longer (though these can leave residue outdoors).
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(Sometimes) moisturizers to fight dryness.
Image courtesy of Squamish local chalk experts Midnight Lightning Climbing
Which Is Better?
It depends on where and how you climb.
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Liquid chalk is ideal for indoor climbing, travel, projecting hard routes, or when you want a clean, long-lasting base layer.
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Loose chalk is better for outdoor climbing, quick re-application, and for climbers who love that classic tactile feel.
Most experienced climbers end up using both together: a layer of liquid chalk for a lasting base, topped up with loose chalk mid-climb. It’s the best of both worlds — long-lasting friction and the ability to refresh grip whenever you need.
Bottom line: Neither is strictly “better.” Loose chalk is the old-school classic, liquid chalk is the modern upgrade, and your best bet is figuring out how to use them together to suit your style. Browse our selection of chalk, chalk bags and brushes
Climbing Chalk FAQ
Q: Is liquid chalk better than loose chalk?
A: Neither is strictly better, liquid chalk lasts longer and makes less mess, while loose chalk is cheaper and easier to reapply. Many climbers use both together for the best results.
Q: Can I use both liquid chalk and loose chalk?
A: Yes. A common approach is to apply liquid chalk as a base layer, then top up with loose chalk mid-climb. This gives long-lasting grip plus the option to refresh when needed.
Q: Is liquid chalk allowed in climbing gyms?
A: Most indoor climbing gyms allow liquid chalk, and some even prefer it because it reduces chalk dust. Always check the gym’s chalk policy before visiting.
Q: Does liquid chalk damage skin?
A: Because liquid chalk contains alcohol, frequent use can dry out your hands. Using a moisturizer such as Rhino Spit or alternating with loose chalk helps prevent skin splits.
Q: What is climbing chalk made of?
A: Both loose chalk and liquid chalk are primarily made from magnesium carbonate (MgCO₃). Liquid chalk also includes alcohol, and sometimes resins or moisturizers.
Images: Courtesy of Midnight Lightning
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