Soft Catches for Lightweight Climbers

Introduction

Climbing partners often differ significantly in weight, whether it's smaller adults paired with larger ones, women with men, or kids with adults. This weight difference can create serious challenges, such as a lightweight belayer being aggressively lifted off the ground during a fall, potentially losing control of the system.

Various belay-assist devices exist such as the Edelrid Ohm, Edelrid Ohmega (which is being released fall 2025), and the READ Climbing ZAED  as well as specific advanced techniques, like a fixed point belay using a Munter hitch—can help manage the upward forces. However, these solutions only address scenarios where the heavier climber is leading and takes a fall. But what about when the lighter climber is on the sharp end?

Lightweight climbers lead, so this article explores what you can do to ensure safe and soft catches when the roles are reversed.

The Other Side of the Equation^*

The Problem

Watching a lighter climber get slammed into the wall during a fall is painful, not just for their feet and ankles, but because it's often avoidable with the right knowledge. Falling is already a mental hurdle; the promise of a soft catch helps. But when the catch is short, hard, and nearly static, pushing above the next bolt can feel far more daunting. Empathy for your lighter climbing partner and a commitment to working together require intention, communication, and a shared understanding of how to manage falls safely.

The Solution

The key lies in adding dynamism to your system. This isn't about one fix or a single device—it's a layered approach. Each element below contributes to a more forgiving, dynamic catch, forming a complete system that prioritizes both safety and confidence.

1. Dynamic Belaying - When a climber falls, the force travels through the rope into the belayer's device and harness. Your job as the belayer is to move with that force—stepping forward and allowing upward motion—rather than stepping back, which many beginners instinctively do in an effort to shorten the fall. Instead, the goal is to extend the duration of the catch, slowing the climber over the longest possible time. Think of it like stopping a car: braking from 100 km/h in 1 second is violent, but over 3 seconds, is much smoother. For lightweight climbers, every hard catch is like a mini car crash—dynamic belaying helps prevent that.

2. Angles - The angle of the rope as it runs from the belayer through the first quickdraw or piece of protection significantly affects the amount of friction introduced into the system. In an ideal scenario, the rope travels in a straight line—without any directional change—as it passes through the first piece. While this isn't always achievable, minimizing that angle is important (Hint: You can always extend the first quickdraw). A sharper angle increases friction, which can reduce the effectiveness of a dynamic belay and result in a harsher catch.

3. Impact Force - All climbing ropes are tested and assigned an impact force rating—a measure of how much force is transferred to the climber and belayer during a fall. This number is listed on the packaging and is worth checking before you buy. For lighter climbers, a lower impact force is beneficial, as it results in a softer catch. Ropes like the Beal Opera 8.5mm are excellent choices, with an impressively low impact force rating of 7.4 kN. In contrast, some ropes exceed 9 kN, which can lead to a much harsher catch. Impact force is influenced by a rope's materials, construction, diameter, and the ratio of sheath to core.

4. Pulley Carabiners - Friction compounds throughout a climbing system — the more resistance at the first piece of protection, the less force is transmitted down the rope to the belayer. This concept becomes especially clear when leading and upward progress is hindered by rope drag. By understanding this principle, climbers can strategically reduce friction by using a pulley carabiner, such as the Edelrid Axiom, on select quickdraws —ideally at the crux, where a fall is most likely. The integrated pulley allows the rope to move more freely, enabling energy from a fall to travel efficiently through the system and reach the belayer, who can then respond dynamically as the force arrives.

5. Slack (Extra Rope in the System) - Allowing a bit of extra rope in front of the belayer —often referred to as a rope “belly” aka “A smile, but not a mile” — can help create a softer catch. As the climber falls, this additional rope is pulled up through the quickdraws, adding more dynamic stretch to the system. Because dynamic ropes are designed to elongate under load, having more rope in play spreads the force out, reducing the overall impact. Combined with movement from the belayer, this added slack can make the difference between a jarring stop and a smooth, controlled catch, often saving the climber from that unfortunate “oof” moment as they impact the wall. Yes, you will fall further; overcoming that is a learned skill, but having confidence in this system and your partner will help.

6. Minimize Rope Drag - Use longer quickdraws — or even alpine draws — to keep the rope running as straight and smooth as possible. This helps avoid sharp angles around edges, roofs, or other rock features that add friction and reduce the rope's ability to stretch and absorb force during a fall.

7. Communicate - Let your belayer know when you're about to fall — or think you might — so they can prepare to give rope and move dynamically. Climbing is a partnership, and building trust takes communication and teamwork. If your belayer consistently delivers hard catches and refuses to adapt their technique or system, it may be time to consider finding a new partner.

8. Choose a Similar-Sized Partner (when possible) - While not always feasible, selecting a belayer closer to your own weight can make a noticeable difference in fall dynamics. Within your climbing group, it's worth considering size when pairing up — choose your belayer with care.

Rope Slip Myths that you might have heard

One common misconception is that you should let the rope slip through the belay device during a fall to soften the catch. In reality, this technique requires a device that allows controlled slippage, an extremely refined touch, gloves, and a high level of experience. More importantly, it significantly increases the risk of losing control of the rope altogether.

The primary goal in any fall is to catch the climber safely. Let the belay device do its job, then use your body movement to add dynamism. Trying to manually "feather" the rope introduces unnecessary risk and often results in a botched catch, or worse, a dropped climber! Trust the device, move with the fall, and focus on solid fundamentals.

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*Note: Introducing dynamism into a belay system is only appropriate when the climber has a clear fall path, free of ground impact, ledges, or obstacles that could cause injury. This article assumes a clean fall scenario. If that's not the case, your judgment must assess the specific situation and adapt accordingly to minimize risk.

As always, when you're belaying, pay attention to your climbing partner and surroundings. 😉 Happy climbing!