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Take your belay game to the next level. NEOX is an assisted blocking belay device for the gym and the crag. Ideal for lead climbing, it h...
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Take your belay game to the next level. NEOX is an assisted blocking belay device for the gym and the crag. Ideal for lead climbing, it has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber. Its ergonomic handle provides comfortable descent control. It can be used with single ropes from 8.5 to 11 mm.
Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, optimized for lead climbing: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimized for lead climbing, it has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope
Easy to use: - Easy to install the rope with diagram engraved on the belay device - Feeding slack and catching falls are accomplished using techniques standard to all Petzl belay devices, always keeping a hand on the brake side of the rope - Cam-assisted blocking offers leeway for the brake-side hand position, regardless of the angle between the climber side and brake side of the rope - Compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm dynamic single ropes and optimized for those 8.9 to 10.5 mm
Descent control: - Ergonomic handle allows you to easily unblock the rope and lower someone - 3:1 mechanical advantage from the handle and camming mechanism helps reduce the amount of effort needed to smoothly control the rate of descent, regardless of rope diameter
Eco-design: all plastic components, including the handle, are made with recycled nylon
Material(s): Aluminum side plates, stainless steel friction plate, cam, and wheel, recycled nylon handle
Certification(s): CE EN 15151-1, UKCA, UIAA
Does the Neox work better than a Grigri in a top-down belaying scenario? And, can the Neox be used to rap on a single strand?
Top Down Belaying: The Neox has advantages and disadvantages when belaying from the top down; the major advantage is the relative ease (very low friction) with which slack can be pulled up through the device. The major disadvantage is that the device lets slack out easily and requires a more attentive belay, with a firm grip on the brake strand.
Single Strand Rappel: The Neox will rappel on a single rope strand the same way a Grigri would. Once the wheel is locked and the cam mechanism is engaged, it behaves identically to the Grigri. The cam engagement occurs when you hold the brake strand.
I had to see what the hype was all about - I see what all the hype was about now. This things throws rope like no one’s business while lead belaying. Love it.
I’ve used a grigri for many years. The neox is petals attempt to make a more lead friendly belay device. I appreciate the wheel addition (the hallmark of this new device) for feeding slack but it misses the mark, or perhaps it can never achieve its goal given the design.
My reasoning for this is that feeding slack is still problematic if the rope diameter is larger and/or if the climber requires slack quickly. The wheel elevates and locks the device. If this mechanism is necessary, however, as if the climber falls we do want the device to lock.
Overall thoughts - it will take some getting used to and a proactive belayer to slowly provide slack.
Feeds rope out smoothly. Catches falls. Really enjoy using it. Big upgrade from my original Grigri; probably caters to lead climbing moreso than top roping.
Great new innovative belay device from Petzl!
It’s early days, but I think that the Neox is going to be a big improvement over the GRIGRI for me. It doesn’t have the wide range of uses that the GRIGRI does, but if you like the technique required for an ATC or similar, and you belay lead climbers, then you’ll love the ease with which slack can be given. I’ve used it on ropes of around 9.6 mm and it’s very smooth until you need it to lock, which it does effectively.
One session using this and I'm already obsessed. So much smoother than a grigri when giving out slack, meant I was able to just concentrate a lot more on the right amount of rope to give, and not compromise trying to avoid short-roping
Took a bit of getting used to, since you have to learn to handle it like a tube-style device (ATC / Reverso / etc), and not a Grigri. Once your hands stop grabbing it Grigri-style, you can feed rope as fast as with a traditional device.
Absolutely love it for the chubby climbing gym ropes that are a chore to drag through any other devices.
We had been using the Petzl Grigri for years at the crag and in the gym. We like the Grigri but it was sometimes a bit slow giving slack to a lead climber. We were eager to try the Neox and it did not disappoint. We've used it a few times outside and once in the gym. It performed really well with all the benefits of a Grigri plus the added ease of feeding out slack to the lead climber.
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